Help me with some engine build decisions, please............

I've just pulled the 455 from my '71 GS and am ready to have the engine built. I've done a lot of research on this forum as well as spoken with several respected Buick performance guys. I'd now like to get some current feedback from you guys on some of the as-yet undecided stuff.

So I can get the best advice possible, here are the basics:

The Car - Full weight '71 GS455 with power everything and A/C. Turbo 400 & 3.55 10 bolt posi.
The engine - stock '73 Electra engine
The Goals -
Emphasis on street performance with occasional trips to my local track
Must run on 93 octane pump gas with occasional addition of some 100 octane when it goes to the track.
Don't mind somewhat lopey idle but, want idle in neutral below 900 and 750 or less in drive.
Don't mind a higher stall converter but, prefer stall below 2800 with good lock up.
My calculators tell me that about 450 HP & 550 TQ should get me mid 12s at 110 MPH which would suit me fine.

The current decisions:

Want to go with .030 over hyper-eutectic pistons
Heads will be built to stage 1 specs, ported and manifolds matched
I have a Performer Intake but can get a stock intake if the performer won't help much
I want to use the "never installed" Jim Rogers ported stock exhaust manifolds I have.
Will install a mandrel bent full exhaust with Walker super turbos
I want to use the 800 CFM Quadrajet which will be performance rebuilt.
Distributor will be stock with complete performance rebuild and electronic conversion. (20 deg mech + 10 deg vac)

What I'm left with now is compression, cam and converter decisions which is what I'd like some input on. Here are some of the cams I've looked into:

GSCA H218-231 on 112
GSCA H228-236 on 114
T/A 212-455 (218/230 on 112 LS)
T/A 288-94H (230/240 on 114 LS)
T/A 288-98H (230/245 on 116 LS)
T/A 290-94H (226/235 on 110 LS)

So, give me your suggesions on:
1) maximum static compression
2) cam choice
3) converter
4) engine builder on the east coast (I want to witness engine dyno pulls)
5) head porter (who won't take a year to finish my heads?)

Fire away, folks and thanks.

 

So, give me your suggesions on:
1) maximum static compression - 11.5:1 max depending on cam.
2) cam choice - T/A 288-98H would provide 8.25:1 dynamic compression with static compression above using a 112* IC. It also has a very broad power range.
3) converter - Tight 10" converter of choice for 3000ish RPM stall (partial to ATI here).
4) engine builder on the east coast (I want to witness engine dyno pulls) - AMP, or with your GSCA affiliation, Wildcat Performance?
5) head porter (who won't take a year to finish my heads?) - With Gessler out of the game, AMP or Champion?

Fire away, guys and thanks - Not all of us are guys!

Cheryl

 

What is your budget for this build?
I would never use the hyper pistons only because I have heard to many horror stories about them.
I think even the speed pro pistons would be a better choice.
Look into a 470 rotating assembly from either JW or AMP. Cost is not that much more and the piece of mind has got to be worth every penny.
I wish I had gone this route.
You said your heads will be built to stage 1 spec and ported. I did this with a set of heads and regret it. The cost involved was not worth it considering the performance limitations of the iron heads without spending a ton of money on porting. By the time your done you will most likely have close to $2,000 invested vs the cost of the edelbrock heads. For what I have spent on my iron heads I could have got a set of edelbrocks.
There are lots of people running 11's with iron heads and some in the 10's. But porting ain't cheap. go aluminum.
With aluminum heads 11-11.5 compression and with iron heads 10.5-10.75 and pump gas should be fine.
For intake go with the aluminum.
For cam, Contact Scotty Brown, He can custom grind you a cam perfect for your combo.Give him a call and give him all your info and he will make you a cam that will work perfect for your combo.I don't know why anyone would go for an off shelf cam when a custom cam is just as easy to get.
http://www.buyracingparts.com/blog/tag/scott-brown-cam/
For a builder follow Larry's advice and contact Scotty Guadagno.
Keep us posted and good luck.

 

I'll probably use the performer and just file off the letters and paint it red. I've heard that the mounting hole for the A/C bracket may not be positioned right on the Performer. Is this true?

Thanks for all your suggestions, Larry. Much appreciated.

 

Theys a fellow on the Forum "Dan Zapenik" I may have butchered his last name, but he has a pair ported irons for sale, ran his car into the tens,priced to move

 

How do I find him? I don't see a post in the "for sale" forum.

 

PM sent.

 

Thanks for your ideas, Cheryl. OP changed to be unisex.

 

My experience is with mostly stock P ontiacs where it would be easy to tell that he had non-iron heads. Is this not the same for Buicks?

 

I liked the extra exhaust duration of that cam since you are using ported exhaust manifolds. Also, the wide LS will idle nicer then a close one.

Cheryl

 

I would stay away from used ported heads, Unless you have ported heads your self and know what to look for in quality porting. Almost always on a used set of ported heads you will find sunken seats, Also you dont neeed hardened seats inserted into Buick heads, Buick heads have more nickle , which makes them hard enough. So i have read, save money and go aluminum. cam choices 4 and 5 I like the 230 intake duration. Eldebrock intake with port matching and some blending up top on a dual plane with a notch in the divider like an air gap intake will work very well. Dont like your piston choice. I would look at what TA perf has . With a heavy car 1800 stall will be fine. Stock ported manifolds wont sastify you , shorty headers with TA exaughst and dynomaxx muffs is hard to beat.

 

Its been proven on dyno after dyno that headers long or short, especially short dont offer much on anything under 450hp, as far as the used heads go, they are used as soon as the engine is cranked, id buy proven heads for half the money b4 I buy a pair with a bunch of mythical numbers stapled to the receipt, just one fellas opinion

 

Before you get too far into the build, make sure to take all the steps to properly validate your core. There are a couple of very informative threads "stuck" at the top of this category that will answer a lot of questions on sonic testing and oiling mods.

I cannot overemphasize the importance of proper indexing and machining/blueprinting of Buick blocks. There is a lot of room for error if the shop is not properly equipped to tackle the job.....as in, the local auto parts store/machine shop may not be the best choice.

Use an experienced shop that has proven packages to get you the results that you want. When you come up with the recipe you want to go with, lay it out on here and let some of the guys who have "been there and done that" give it a once over. You'll get a lot of good input from a large knowledge base.

 

I would think headers with merge collectors will out perform any cast iron deals. If your going for the nostalgic look then hogged out cast iron puppies will do. I would not be one to have aluminium performance high flowin heads with cast iron logs bolted to it.

 

Yes, I am after the "stock appearing" look and that's why I want to stay with ported exhaust manifolds and iron heads. I shouldn't think getting 450+ HP out of an iron engine would be too difficult.

 

Decided from the onset that I would only go with a shop that a) is known for building Buick motors and b) has an engine dyno I can see the results from. I'm talking with several now.

 

If I were close to Scotty G he would be my choice.
Here is some good info to read through.

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...-Head-455-Builts-Parts-and-power-comparisions