Just heated air. No exhaust. No pressure. As the exhaust warms the manifold , the manifold warms the air in the tube. The warm air travels up to the thermostatic spring on the choke. As the thermostatic spring warms up, it twists the choke open.
I came to my senses and changed direction. I am putting together the needed pieces to put it back to stock. QUESTIONS: -Is the insulated white wrap needed on the heat tube? -The nipple on the exhaust manifold just inserts into the heat tube correct? Any kind of clamp? -Can brake line be used to make the heat tube? thanks all! Kensey
There is a hole drilled all the way through the exhaust manifold, then a steel tube is pressed into the hole that passes all the way through the manifold. In some cases the bottom of the tube is left open; in older cars there is usually a tube leading from the air filter to the bottom of the pressed in tube. If there is no filter, every few years you will have to take the choke apart and clean the crud out of it.
I think the insulation is there to keep you from getting burned, but I suppose it does keep the heat in the tube better than without it. Most of the vehicles I have had did not have insulation there, but those were all Chevys. Not sure about the nipple. I know when I drilled mine out, I just drilled until I saw shiny metal shavings come out. Figured all of the old tube was out at that point. Yes, brake line can be used. I plan to use about 3 feet of this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...6_1748&keyword=brake+lines+(steel)+-+domestic The way it is now, it fits back into the freshly drilled nipple, but as mine had rusted off, the bend is very near the end and I prefer to have it come straight out of the nipple and then put a bend in it to go up towards the carb. May get to it today I hope. ray:
Yes. Else, the air in the tube will cool off and the choke won't open as soon as it should. The original was probably asbestos. I don't reckon you can get that anymore. Mine has a woven insulation on it. I'm not sure what the material is... That's the way I remember mine being . Seems, I remember, it went all the way through the manifold and had a flare on the far side to keep it from being pulled back through. (much like a brake line flare). But, it rotted away and, (13 years ago) I went with an after market universal kit that has a stove that straps on the manifold at a convenient place. I don't see why that wouldn't work. ---------- Post added at 11:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 PM ---------- Seems, I remember Dad put a bit of steel wool inside the choke stove as a filter..... I'm beginning to recollect that that is why dad wanted go with an after market choke stove, so he could add a filter...
OK, I have another question. On my 61, should I have two lines for proper choke operation? 1. Choke spring to the exhaust nipple. 2. Exhaust nipple to the carb for fresh air. THANKS A LOT for everyones help on this. I know I'm asking a million questions and making this harder then it needs to be. I just want to do it once, the right way. Kensey
FYI, I cannot find any reference to a second line in my service manual on the '61 and I sure don't have one on my car. As John said, I believe this is only on older cars.
Thanks Mosslack! I couldn't find anything either. However my Rochester carb has a tube coming out of the neck below the choke. It has a rubber cap on it now. Was wondering if this was for the other choke tube? Or possibly the California only clean air thing? Buy my 61 is from NJ. I'm spending way to much time on this choke... thanks, Kensey
LOL, yeah, you can over think things like this. As I said, mine is just stuck into the nipple and works fine. I have no idea of what is past where it is at. The only reason I will replace mine is because it is rusty where it goes into the nipple and I know it won't be long before it's rusted off again.
On my car; The aftermarket choke stove on mine has lasted longer (10+ years) than the original design ever did
My '66 does have two lines. The one from the exhaust manifold heat tube to the carb top ensures that only clean, filtered air gets into the system. The choke coil housing has a rather small vacuum hole so it needs to be kept clear of debris.
Well I did it. I made the BEST DAM choke tube you've ever seen today! Put a repo heat spring and side plate back on. Stock set up, and it seems to be working great! Only took me 3 weeks, one manual choke in the garbage, and tons of research to figure out a relatively simple set up. BUT IT'S DONE!! I BEAT YOU CHOKE SET UP!!!!! HA!!!!!!! On to the next issue, loud "chattering" noise that comes and goes. -Water pump? -Universal? -Wheel bearing? Thanks for everyones help on this one! Cruising in the rain all day today, just happy to be on the road. Kensey
Maybe that chattering is a loose hubcap center medallion ---------- Post added at 06:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ---------- I had a loud "clang clang" that took me two years to find. It was the parking brake cable splitter bouncing against the torque tube. ---------- Post added at 06:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ---------- Congratulations on the choke completion. !!!!
