-HELP-??buick 350 stalls & sputters when turning??

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by 1smooth73, Nov 16, 2015.

  1. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    I hope someone can help me figure this out. I've been to 2 certified mechanics that have been working on cars for 30 plus years and they were clueless. Whenever I turn left my car sputters like it wants to stall. It actually did stall once, but it cranked right back up. It does it when I turn right also but not as much as when i turn left. It seems to also do this when im driving & the transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd. It also seems to happen on real bumpy roads. The car is a 73 lesabre custom. The engine was rebuilt about 2 years ago. Its a sbb 350. From carb to oilpan its stock. Someone please help me. When the car stalled I almost had a wreck. Aside from this forum, info on buick the buick v8 is nonexistent. Thanks in advance ladies & gentleman.
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Sounds like low float level in the carburetor, or weak fuel pump. When you turn or subject the car to g forces, the low fuel level can uncover jets and/or passages and cause symptoms. It amazes me that 2 certified mechanics missed this. Maybe they never worked on carburetors?
     
  3. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    Thanks for the quick response. Ill have someone check the float as soon as I can, but unfortunately most people around here are lost when it comes to carbs. Or at least they act like it. I drove it this morning to work & it drove horrible. Now, its doing it every time I give it gas to increase my speed. Its running really rough while driving, but at idle, it runs fine. Its also fine when I hit the gas while its in park at idle. Tried plugs & wires already.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    It isn't unusual for an engine to act completely normal at idle and while revving it in Park/Neutral. There is no load on the engine, so it acts fine, but put the engine to work and it falters. How old is the fuel pump? It might be that simple. I would also carefully inspect the rubber lines at the fuel pump as well as near the tank. A weak fuel pump or porous lines will give similar symptoms. I would check all of that before the carburetor. You cannot rely on the mechanics you are consulting. They are either unwilling, or unable (worse) to help you. Simple fuel pressure and volume checks can narrow the problem down. If the pump is old, replace it along with any suspect rubber lines.

    BTW, I see you are new to the site. Do yourself a favor, fill out your profile fully so that your location is visible. Help might be right around the corner, and you or others will never know.
     
  5. Bogus919

    Bogus919 Silver Level contributor

    I had a similar situation and for me it was a cracked rubber hose running from the fuel pump to the metal line that goes back to the tank. I replaced the hose and I was good again. For me it ran great at idle but once i put it in drive and stepped on the gas it would sputter.

    Hope this helps.
     
  6. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    Thank you all. I really appreciate the advice. I will check into all that was mentioned here. Yall are great forum members. At least I know a few things to check out now. Thanks again. Anymore advice is always welcome. I will post the solution when found in case others have this issue.
     
  7. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    Well I got 1 guy to look at it on my lunch break..he says my points under distributer are wore down? They're not all the way bad, but theyre going bad. Could that be the problem? Didnt know points would cause those symptoms.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Might be a problem, but that does not account for symptoms when turning left or right. It's a shame that you have to rely on others to work on your car. It really isn't that hard if you apply yourself. You have plenty of help here. Your very first step is to buy one of these,

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-buick-...ash=item1c5cccfacd:g:c2kAAOSwhcJWIaAo&vxp=mtr

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Factor...ash=item3cffc214d1:g:GCsAAOSw7I5TwJ-g&vxp=mtr

    Are you located outside of the U.S.A.?
     
  9. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    Lol no im in the usa...its just that this is the oldest car ive owned & im not to familiar with the buick 350 & like i said, aside from this forum, info on this car just isnt out there. With most of my other cars I can look on youtube or online for help. Ordering a service manual after I type this.
     
  10. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    I would check electrical connections at coil/distributer at battery and starter. Just to eliminate the possibility. Loos connections do crazy things and depending on engine installers quality of work I could be an issue. Also check grounds . there should be a ground strap from back of engine to firewall. Seen this left off plenty of times or got ripped out when engine was pulled . some think its not important. So it does not get replaced.
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Good, points are very easy on GM cars. All you need is a dwell meter. Some of the better multi meters include a dwell function. The Chassis manual will be an ENORMOUS help to you.
     
  12. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    Chassis manual should be here by friday. Today im gonna spray some carb/choke cleaner on the carb because it could use a good cleaning & replace rubber hoses from tank to pump & the one up front. Ill keep you guys posted.
     
  13. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    Well that didnt solve the problem. I also checked fuel filter & it was good. Just checked my points & they are at 40. I think the dwell angle should be 30 so im setting them now.
     
  14. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    I, too, think the problem is with the float or float level.
     
  15. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    Either that, fuel pump, or fuel sending unit. Setting distributor points didn't help either.
     
  16. alan

    alan High-tech Dinosaur

    Way back when I had a tach wire that was moving around under the hood. It had a bad spot in the insulation and would short out when I turned left or right (one or the other!).

    If you've added a tach I would look at that.
     
  17. 1smooth73

    1smooth73 Active Member

    FINALLY! Problem solved. It turned out being my ignition coil. I would have never expected this because its only about 6months old. I swapped it out for another & its running like a scalded dog again lol. Thanks to all who took the time out to respond with suggestions & tips. I really appreciate it.
     
  18. Bogus919

    Bogus919 Silver Level contributor

    Interesting..I'm guessing having the wheel turned was straining the system to include the alternator and coil. Add that solution to the pile....glad it's fixed.
     

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