Hi all, I'm not sure where to post this question so hopefully enough of you will see this to give me an answer. I'm trying to decide if I should reuse my non ac heater box or buy one of those repro ones. The reason why I'm asking is that I was looking as thoroughly as I could at me heater box and noticed that a lot of the seals/baffles have deteriorated from age. I'm not sure if it is even fixable, I bought one of those gasket sets for the heater box but haven't opened it to see what's included in the set. If I reuse the old heater box I know it will not be as good as it could be, lots of air leaks do to worn out baffle seals and stuff. Last time I was running it, it never blew truely hot air, just warm, maybe do to these leaks. Is there a way for me to physically open the unit to repair the seals and put it back together or should I buy a repro unit, I'm iffy because of all the bad press repro stuff has rightfilly gotten lately. Has anybody gone the repro route with the heater box unit and been satisfied, else has anybody opened and repaired their original unit and if so please give me details. Allen allioop108@aol.com
If it is not blowing hot you have another problem. Maybe your cables are not opening all the way. Or maybe an old/clogged heater core. As there should always be plenty of hot air available. It is just not making it to the cabin for some reason. What degree thermostat are you using that can effect availalable heat as well.
Cable movement is fine, goes the full length, I think with all the foam seals having deteriorated that when I put the heat on hot the door still lets the cold air get through. Heater core is relatively new so I know its not clogged and thermostat is a 180 or 195, don't remember. I know I have the same problem with my 70 cutlass which has a fairly new heater core also and a 195 thermostat. I remember when I got that car 20 years ago the heat was super hot. Its still hot but not like before plus i have a lot more drafts now from the car aging, can feel cold air coming through the kick panel vents at speed even though I have knobs in the closed position. So I'm trying to figure out if i should (1) seperate the metal on the heater box so i can get inside and refurbish the seals and stuff, or (2) buy a new repro box and hope its functions and fits just like the original. I'm looking for advise from someone who has gone either way. With all the horror stories of repro parts I want advise should I go this route, I know when my car was at the welders he was putting goodmark quarters on a firebird and they were so far off as he showed me. When he did my quarter (NOS) it was right on the money, one of his easiest job. So basically I dont want to buya repro box if I'm going to have to "make" it fit. Please chime in someone. Allen allioop108@ail.com
Allen, I think if you look at your heater box install kit you will find several pads of the correct sizes for all the doors inside. I believe the only one that slides is the defrost duct door, so that one is not critical. The other two actually close onto the foam pad seal so if you replace those it should help for sure. On mine, all the foam seals were gone. New ones fit fine, used contact cement to glue them in, and yes it is a major PITA to get them in there properly without taking the box apart. Not even sure anyone repros that box, do they?? Better off fixing up your old one anyway. Make sure when you have it apart that the doors are actually moving with the levers, the doors are simply crimped onto the rods and even though the arm moves the door inside may not got full travel. Later Tim
OK thanks Tim, one more question, did you get your seals in place without taking the heater box apart or did you have to somehow get it apart. If I can do it with out splitting the box then I will as I'm not sure how I would rejoin the box since I don't have a welder. Allen
I did it without splitting the box. The one is pretty easy access wise, so do that last. The one way in there takes some planning so do a few dry runs before you put the glue on.... Good luck! later Tim
