Witch brand off header gives the most low end power / torque for my almost bone stock 350? Is there any real (not dyno2000) figures on the www So I can compare them?:Brow: Lars
I think you only have 3 choices. T%A, Poston, or Hooker. Personally, I think the Hookers are garbage. They are made very thin and the flange is weak as well. I have TA headers on my car and they are top notch. Don't know about Poston.
I have the TA's on mine, have had them since '96, the fit is excellent and there holding up well:beer Mark
Only god inputs on TA headers! :Brow: Sounds fine to me, if I can expect more low end power with these? As I did mention in earlier treads, my camshaft starts at 2000 (according to Crane) and my stall speed is at 2200-2300. But with 3, 08 rear gear, its a heavy load at the start. The brand of choice must start Building power from just underneath 2000rpm (I think) o No: Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong! I appreciate all input I can get in this mater! :TU: Lars
Lars, truth of the matter is if you are only gonna get 15-20 ponies anyway. TA sells different size tubes I think. BTW, mine are chrome and have held up well. They have a little blue tint to them, but anything is better than rusty headers.
"Only" can be what i need Chris,Mark and all fellow V8BUICK:sters Its like this: From standing still and just flooring it, I now get anything from 0(zero) to 2 (two) car lengths off tire tracks. uzzled: It's the zero thing (no wheel spin) I'm not happy with! :ball: Only 15-20hp hmm. Right now it feels like I got two things to choose from, Headers or pocket porting?o No: Porting I can do my self; I have done some non Buick heads before, so I fell comfortable with doing it I guess I will end up with both pocket porting and headers sooner or later, you all know that I can get enough thing have got its claws in me. But anyway, what will be the best to start with, most low hp gain (not concerning the $ or work) And as usual: all input appreciated :beer Lars
What is your build up on your engine? That would help us help you as best we can, usually headers dont add much low end, its the midrange and top end. Give more details:bglasses: Mark
Also Lars, if you port the heads, the burned gasses have to get out so you will need the headers anyway. With 3.08's and a fairly heavy car unless you have a huge stall the car may seem a bit soggy out of the hole. If you really want to wake it up go with 3.73's and a 3000 stall. That is, if you can get that kind of stuff in Sweden.:grin: :grin:
The engine is a -68 350-4bbl The camshaft is a Crane part no: 710571 Cam timing @ .050 lift : ............ Opens Closes Max Lift Duration Intake 2*BTDC 36*ABDC 107*ATDC 218* Exhaust 20*BBDC ( 4 ) BTDC 117*BTDC 226* Recommended rpm range Minimum 2000rpm Max 4500rpm Float 6500rpm Earlier (about 2 weeks ago) i degreed the camshaft, it was 6*retarded. Now its 4* advanced in a attempt to get more low end, i promise you all this: it is wort doing a "degree" when you install a camshaft! Stock heads, and stock intake manifold (heat up/exhaust passage blocked) with a 4-hole 2 high spacer and a Holley 650 spread bore with vacuum secondary on top with a 50cc accelerator pump. Dual 2 1/4 exhaust with H pipe. TH350 and 2200-2300 rpm stall speed. 3, 08 posi rear. 235/60-14 rear tires, Modified points distributor with the Crane advance kit,initial timing 16-18* all in (34-36*) at25-2600 I have not got the manifold vacuum advance tuned in yet. The car is a -71 skylark convertible "converted" to disc front brakes. 3,73 and 3000stall is not an option at the moment.I'm not dragracing, I just want to blow som (I call them) "NIPPON-PIPPON" of the road!(figure that out!) :laugh: The converter I could hold in my hand tomorow= they are availeble here, the rear gear is a another ballgame...... but then again its not an option :TU: Lars
Lars, that is a fairly mild cam and you should have plenty of convertor for that. Sounds like you have it nailed. I did not know your car was a ragtop. The gears and stall were just a suggestion but as you said you are not building a race car. I will be going to 3.73's in my ragtop next year. BTW, what size jets are in the carb? Buicks like a lot of fuel.
Holley 650 spread bore vacuum-operated secondaries prim. jets 57 sec. jets 93 85 power valve Brown spring in sec. 50cc acc. pump (stock 25) As I am typing this down, I realise I am using the second heaviest spring! uzzled: Maybe this is robbing me of some hp:s and torque? I have not touched the carb. after changing the camshaft. Maybe this is the reason why I got my with the ign. vac.advance connected pinging problems? Lars
Lars do you have enough vacumn to use that 85 power valve? You need 17 inches in drive to get away with that. As for the spring it is kind of plug and play. I think the one you are using may be too heavy.
I'm back on the (right) track I selected the power valve the way I am used to. As I wrote before al carb. tuning was done before I changed the camshaft. But even now: Warm engine in drive at idle = 11-12hg, after what I read some were in my Holley carburetors & manifolds HPbook Im now supposed to do this: 11 - 2 = 9 the 85 (8,5hg) feels just right to me. And the exhaust gases is ok, so I think I keep it for now, But the spring thing, I just changed to a purple one, no bog and no pinging.:laugh: But good performance gain. Thanks a lot, for leading me on the right track! :beer I will keep playing with (tuning) the carb. next summer. Im afraid this season soon is over fore me, its time to put the car in winter storage. :sleep: It was -3* Celsius cold last night! Lars
Hey, if it works it works. I thought to select the proper power valve you divided your vacumn at idle in drive by 2? At least that is what the Holley tech guy told me. Anyone know for sure. My car is getting ready for storage as well. It is gettin cold here too, but not that cold.
To day i also found it on the Holley home page: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/TI-222A.html Lars
That 50cc accelerator pump is a little much. Probally be better off with a stock 30cc. Your primary jets also seem a little low. When my motor was basically stock, I ran 69's in a holley 600cfm. Now my motors not stock and am running 71's in a holley 750. Both were choosen from taking vacuum readings, so they are tuned very close.
Chris! If more people than you got that wrong power valve tuning advise, there is no wonder why so many dislikes the Holley carb. Done that way you must jet up, or you will go lean at load, but if you do that (bigger jet) the entire system will be wrong, and you get horrible gas consumption. Nick! Your right! stock acc.pump is 30cc (not 25 as I wrote earlier). Ive got a spread bore; those were made as bolt on replacement for the Q-jet. I believe both the 600 and the 750 Holley is standard bore carbs. Maybe they even got the list no. 1850 (600) 3310(750) (sometimes referred as 780)? I believe the standard bore have bigger primary throttle bore then the spread bore and different carbs. They also got different venture size that sucks the gas with different force (vacuum) trout the jet. This (I believe) is the reason why you got bigger prim. jets than me, and we boat are tuned right! I am also using a 2high 4-hoal spacer (custom made). With the other camshaft (who was supposed to have stock grind) this helped/added low end torque, but also called for more acc.pump. I am still using the spacer and there is no signs of an over rich situation! Im starting to have second thought about it now, the spacer that is. My engine now fells very healthy with a potential for some more fine tuning. I need to replace the org.ignition advance bushing and play some more with the Crane vac. advance canister and carb. sec. spring:TU: Lars :TU:
Lars, I didn't realize you had the spreadbore, jetting would be different. The holley tech wasn't all wrong about the power valve. There are he two methods. The minus 2 method is for near stock motors. The other method is from more modified motors that don't have a very consistant vacuum. Either way it's only going to effect part throttle. Even going by the 1/2 vacuum way on a stock car will just give you better milage, but less part throttle responce. But once the vacuum goes below the setting, it's all the same. This is where having an incar vacuum gauge can really help. You can get em for $30.
Yes! And when you, me ore who ewer, lose (fell it is not there) throttle response and dont know the reason why, they usually jet up. And run over rich! = bad mpg. Thats what I meant. I believe were boot on the same side here, Im just having a hard time expressing my self in a (for me) foreign language! The in car vacuum gauge you mentioned, I use my hand held one with a long hose for drive an test situations BTW have you changed the sec. spring in your crab.? Lars
