Current issue I'm running into installing headers. This is the only stud on either of the heads. Right side header bolted up fine, left side will not line up easily, looks like the head broke and someone bubblegummed a weld on and the stud is not in the correct location? Stud does not want to budge, but even if it did is the hole in the correct location? Option might be to enlarge the hole in the header flange to give me some wiggle room?
If you aren't pulling the head, do as Devon said, you'll be time and money ahead until it does need to come out. Fixing the header flange will be easier, too!
Many times the gasket has less clearance for the bolts then the flange does . If you have tin snips and want to spend less time cursing while doing this job then cut the gasket into 3 or 4 sections and then notch it for the bolt holes . In this way you can get all the bolts started and then slip each gasket section right into place. Although it will be a bit of a mess you should really coat both sides of the gasket with antiseze . Should you have a gasket blow out this coating will allow you to just slip a new one right in. Also please get some antiseize on those bolts and or studs your using, you'll hug yourself for it down the road!
Drilled the flange hole to the next size now all bolts line up...except...who thought it was a good idea to bury the bottom middle bolt so close to the header tubes that I need a 5 year old's hand to get the bolt started!?!? Doug's headers, the bolt hole in the header is already slotted, can get the bolt (ARP 12 point) in but not started because it is on the tips of my now cramped fingers. Can't maneuver the header with that center bolt pre installed and the stud in place...there has to be a sweet spot. Engine mount is removed, steering shaft is shifted out of the way, fuel pump off, engine jacked up...need smaller hands because the 5 year old's arms aren't going to be long enough to reach
I've usually had good luck from beneath and using a wrench, doing half a turn, flip it over and do the other half. It is slow but it works.
That middle bolt is the worst. 12pt ARP or equivalent fastener and a stubby wrench and access from the bottom. That's the best way to do it in my opinion.
What I did on my last install of my headers was notched out the bottom bolt hole on the header flange, started the bolt IN THE HEAD FIRST by a couple threads, then bring the header up from the bottom and hang the header on the exposed bottom bolt threads, install the rest of the bolts, run ‘em in, then while there’s still a gap between the flange and head, slide your OEM manifold gaskets in, that’s correct, I used the Fel Pro individual exhaust manifold gaskets that I have dozens of from gasket sets.
My bolts are a piece of cake...... I just my my neighbor pop them in.... 20 minutes per side... Them I twist them down...... FYI theses are the best you can get. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2961600120...fiPC3C4HmohK-fGjNlE6pPhEsrtZXdzxoCvuwQAvD_BwE
His issue is the stud that won't come out. You can't put it over the stud and drop it over the center bolt. Maybe you should slot the hole where the stud is too???
Why not use studs instead of bolts? I just bolted mine to the heads last night. Used ARP studs with 12 point reduced size nuts. The hooker 1-3/4” headers are pretty tight for the drivers side middle lower and passengers side middle too towards the rear. Could even get a wrench on it. Need to get a 7/16” cheapo wrench and make some modifications
