"As far as off the line goes I shudder to think about a 413 cam in a 350 coming off the line without a 3500 stall converter and some good gears no matter how much "torque" a 350 makes." My thought exactly, the engine just does not get going till 3500 with a bigger cam of this caliber. I still want to see Demko take that carb apart and change the float or the needle seat, that should be easy. I see the mph and et picked up so somewhere in the midrange you did pick up some HP. But now it looks like you are lugging the engine with the stickies just as much as running the stock tires and spinning. Both ways are dropping the 60 ft times. Probably need more stall or a better one. Get that 3500 like Mike says and it will rip out of the hole. The 3500 stall will still pull the car at 2 grand going around town. So do not worry about it always being at 3500.
Mark; relist your combo for the guys to look at: mainly distributor,coil, ignition, tci convertor model, maybe fuel filter, etc. I would think with 413 cam, your gear ratio & compression, stickys and a good quality convertor, you would be high 13's at the least.:TU:
You had a KB Mark 2 in there how was that cam? I see you have been doing this a while too if you bought the TCI unit 20 years ago Know that feeling too. You never know how the car really runs on the street since you really do not run it out, there. This is why you go to the track and see what you have and how it really is running. You do not want that nose over in a good street or highway race now do we. LOL Especially against those brand Xer's
Guy's right with the convertor. I had a D5 with the Voodoo and it was OK but the 3,200 10" from JW is supreme. Almost wish I had a 3,500. Like Guy said, don't worry about street use. Mine tools around town at 1,500ish in 4th and the eng/cam lopes along at that speed. Pretty cool!! You can also get one free restall with Jims convertors
Here it is, as best I can remember. .030 over H522NP pistons Deck cut .050 to put pistons .005 in the hole Heads shaved .030 TA 1.92 intake/1.55 exhaust stainless valves, mild bowl work. Intake side cut to compensate for decking. TA 1.6 roller rockers, TA dual springs for the 413 cam Crossdrilled crank TA Stage 1 intake Everyday Q-Jet ( original 7041544 ) MSD Pro Billet distributor (no vacuum advance) Blaster coil in original location and bracket MSD6A box MSD wires Plugs are NGK UR4 T-350 trans with TCI Street Brawler convertor, about 20 years old 3.42 Positraction in 12 bolt housing Curb weight (weighed in 1985) 3780 lbs
Sounds like you have a lot to dial in. I had problems with my car suddenly running out of steam up top. Always would run fine and then after it sat for a year I had no power. I replaced the entire fuel system, rebuilt and replaced the ignition system components and had the carb rebuilt. Turns out I wiped a cam lobe. Not saying that happened to you but definitely check, measure and test everything you can before throwing parts at it. Checking things is free. Replacing parts that are fine is just throwing money away. I know your combo with the right gears and converter would be a solid mid to low 13 car. But everything has to compliment each other to get there
Are you running race fuel? With those pistons at .005 deck and 50 cc head(about .030 milled) it comes to close to 11.5 compression. Yes that combo should be low 13s at least
Id be more comfortable saying needle and seat or float level if it was only happening at the top of third gear or mayybe second. But even with a stock .125" needle and seat you should be able to make it through 1st gear to 6grand without running out of fuel. Its all worth checking anyhow. Have to find the cause to fix it. post what you find
You pretty much have about the same as I do unless my heads were ported more, and I have different piston but that shouldn't mean anything. It is probably a combination of needing a little more stall and gear. Soon as the fuel issue is sorted out it should roll good
Hey Mark,. your getting some great advise here from guy's that have been there and done that,.. Let me cut to the chase here and tell you how most of us think in full race mode... First off, your motor build looks great, you should be in the low 13's for sure,... No matter what kind of motor you build and everything being good with it,. you have to look at what it takes to get it the car down the road,.. I know you probably read the thread about my son's 350 sbb build,.. In my thread from A-Z is the way we racers build a whole car -my son's is completely street legal-,.. and their's no short cuts... You have to give it a constant fuel supply, good converter, gear and tires and shift kit in the trans... Before you race next time I would get a elec. fuel pump and run it in the back by the fuel tank push thru the stock line and by pass the mech. fuel pump,.. then go get a off the shelf 3500 torque converter from TCI or B&M, Hughes, it will work just fine..because that's what fits your cam and compression build, and do your QJ mods - I prefer a 750 DP holley, and heat them tires up before every run.. For the guy's that like to go fast, this is just the basic's that we do to eliminate the headaches for the top end charge and then we can concentrate on the timing and the tune... It will take just a little bit more money to put a smile on your face... Sorry about the Blah Blah Blah session , but you really need to do those few things to make it go... your almost there... Good Luck...
Thanks for all the advice guys:TU: Track season just started, and Im anxious to get back and run and have fun, BUT I've got some things to sort out.! What seems to run good on the street doesn't always equate to running awesome at the track, Im for sure learning ALOT!!! Fuel system Im going to check. Convertor, Im sure the 413 cam needs more, going to call around. Theres a convertor company local to me that builds 'em, a fellow V8 Buick guy told me about 'em Perfect Convertor in Walton hills (10 min. away from me) Im really happy with the Q-Jet Ken did for me. Im keeping the 3.42 gear. When I do change the convertor, Im going to pull the engine, for me I'd rather pull the engine than drop the trans, exhaust, (H-pipe in the way) then wrestle with the sombitch on my back getting it back in, I HATE that:blast: While the engine is out Im going to pull a head and find out where my compression is at, never checked, now I wanna know. Believe it or not I enjoy this "tinkering" Im weird:laugh:
From what I remember, the KBMK2 cam ran well, or at least as well as I could get it running at 18/19 years old, LOL Bought my GS in 1984/85, so its been a long while! Whats comical, is just when yah figure yah got everything figured, yah dontuzzled: Funny yah mention brand Xer's, reminds me of shortly after I bought the GS, came across an early 70's Camaro (remember when there were beater cars running around!) I pulled away from him from a roll:grin:
I think I found my fueling problem. I removed the air horn from my Q-Jet to check float level, 9/32 I look closely at the needle and its sitting on the bottom of the seat, theres no clip to the float arm, oooooops, where did it go? No biggie, I have a GP Sorrenson Q-Jet rebuild kit from many years ago, yep, it has the little clip in there:TU: Hopefully that was my fueling issue. Removed the seat for markings to indicate size, couldn't find any, but Im sure Ken installed the right one. Been years since I've been inside a Q-Jet, it was fun.
Might not be it, but in the past, I have had the long filter behind the fuel inlet of the carb twist and collapse under fuel pressure, starving the car for fuel at WOT.o No: Ever since then, I use an inline filter between the frame and fuel pump, and take the one out of the carb inlet.
