I purchase two sets of "ACCEL 8104ACC Heavy Duty Points Ignition Tune Up Kit for GM Points Distributors" of of Amazon with no issues. This was to return my girl back to stock and she actually starts easier now (replaced Petronix version 1 module). -MIG
Standard owns Echlin now I think. Very good success with either. For the newer junk we work on, Napa will offer an NOE (Dorman, junk) or Echlin part in many cases. What we have found is on more complicated parts, Echlin will put an OE part in their box and sell for less than the dealer. Had a 2007 Ram 1500 with a 5R45 in today in need of a trans solenoid pack. Dealer one is on back order, Echlin was in town and it was a reboxed OE.
Indeed. Having the extra copper conductor strap with the spring on the points was a genius move by Standard Ignition. I'd gotten as much as 30k miles on Blue Streak ignition products in many of my vehicles.
That is great information, thank you! I have been considering converting my car back to points, if I continue to have issues with the current set-up.
FAST XRi module (lobe sensing) in a remanufactured 1973 1112110 distributor, MSD cap and rotor, MSD 8.8mm wires, MSD 8202 Blaster 2 coil, and MSD 6AL ignition box. Starts great when cold, but trying to restart it when it's hot can be very challenging sometimes... Oh, and the original resistor wire has been bypassed and yellow wire to the starter disconnected.
I had bought the Lectric Limited setup back before the new build was finished and ultimately had the whole setup rebuilt and recurved. It runs, cold/hot starts great and revs up to 5,500 ish with ease. I think it would with points, too. The key factor is the recurve and tightening up the shaft. I subscribe to keep it simple.
UNI-SETS were junk when new . First showed up around 73 . At the dealer we converted them to the separate points and condenser . Used to grab every condenser strap and screw I could find in the junkyards . One of the secrets of points is to look for the stationary contact set that has a hole in the center . And looks like a doughnut ' With all the talk about converting to HEI there is no real advantage over points . except the extended plug life .GM HEI's are pretty well bulletproof And I would prefer to carry a set of points in my glove box for a road breakdown than have to worry about a Pick-up coil or a module .
Rich, FLGS400, Try hooking the yellow wire back up as original. It MAY just solve your hot start issue. Should take little to no time to just try. Tom T.
Tom, thanks for the suggestion. However, the original resistor wire is not connected to the fuse box anymore, and the GM gear reduction starter in the car does not have the terminal for it. Doesn't that yellow wire splice into the original resistor wire that went to the coil? If I do convert the distributor back to points, the wire from the points would connect to the white wire on the MSD 6AL. The 6AL box is fed keyed 12V from a wire to the fuse box that replaced the resistor wire.
So, I did some research last night into using the points with the MSD 6AL box and Blaster 2 coil. Saw on a few different automotive forums and a magazine article that a lot of folks do this as a preferred method of having a better ignition system while keeping their stock distributor, in older cars. I saw that JW had posted something about this in another thread recently. The resistance wire or a ballast resistor is not required, either. Apparently the signal from the MSD box's white wire puts a whole lot less amps to the points, and they last a lot longer. They say that the adjustment is not as critical, as they just have to open and close by the lobes in the distributor, to signal the box to fire the coil. You still have to keep up with lubing the lobe contact point though. Sounds pretty simple so I may try it. I have not used a dwell meter in many many years though (like 35-ish). I'm wondering how I would adjust the points using one, if they are not connected to the coil at all....
The MSD box directly supplies up to 450 volts or more to the ignition coil. All the points do is provide a signal to the box to fire the coil. This requires very little current so the points last forever. The original coil + wire simply turns the box on and off with the ignition switch. The MSD box white wire connects to the distributor lead that previously connected to the coil -. The box has it's own coil leads. The box gets it's power directly from the battery.
I ordered the points, condenser, new primary and ground leads, multimeter with dwell and tach measurements, and silicone ignition grease today. I'm going to pull the electronic module and replace it with the points. to trigger the MSD. I can take this hot-start BS anymore. This was less expensive than buying the distributor with magnetic pick-up from TA. I'm going to try to get it done this coming week, before the Auburndale BOPC show. By the way Al, sorry for high-jacking your thread...
