Well guys I got another buick 350 block (1968) and heads...well as it says I 'd like to try and get 400hp (at least) OR up to 450hp. can I used 1975-newer stock rods to run that hp? I planned on having bigger valves,porting and polishing heads, engine rebuild with 10:1 pistons and a decent streetable cam,headers, and a 750 carb. you guys think that will do it? I really don't want to sell my parts to switch to bbb. 2 reasons 1-I currently had a 73 buick 350 in my 84 regal and don't want to change anything out again 2-well I would be 1 less guy out there that has a demand for buick 350 parts (if you catch my Drift) Thanks Josh
Two different experienced Buick engine builders (AMP and Tri-Shield ) posted the details of Buick 350 builds with ported heads. Both yield about 350 hp at a cost of about $6500.00. http://www.v8b uick.com/showthread.php?153248-TSP-Level-1-350-Buildup-info-and-dyno-results&highlight=
Both were fairly conservative street engines from what I remember. 450 might be tough but 400 is possible. Maybe pushing the envelope on compression will be part of what is needed to get there
sean got just shy of 400 hp on a 8 to 1 comp 350 with major port work and I think a burton single plane intake and a ta 212 cam and plenty of guys are running turbos and superchargers running more hp so why not cap screw rods are stronger so get them if you can heads need to flow 250-260 intake
If you are shooting for a lot of hp in a 350,these pistons would be a good start; AutoTec is a High Quality, Precision Manufactured piston option. That comes at a very respectable price. Our Design Specific Forging allows us to manufacture our parts with less machining time, thus allowing us to keep production cost down. Then pass that savings on to you, the customer. Made out of 4032 High Silicone Aluminum Alloy, it has great wear resistance, a low expansion rate, is very durable, and is very low in friction. These pistons accommodate multiple uses including. Your local auto shop, muscle car restorations, performance street rods, as well as many spec racing classes. They can also withstand mild nitrous kits and small turbo or super chargers. Just about everyone can benefit from the excellent value the AutoTec line carries. Keeping in mind these pistons were originally designed for about 600 Horsepower. In Small Block applications, we have customers that frequently fine tune engines that yield 850+ Horsepower with a bit of Super Charger boost. Bore, Ring Pack, and Compression Distance changes can be made to any shelf part at no extra charge. Meaning that if you do not see your application listed in the guide, we can make what you need without charging a custom price. Every part is made with same high quality machines and tools as our RaceTec line including diamond turned ring grooves, and skirts. Not to mention our parts are 100% made in the USA. http://www.buyracingparts.com/piston...iston-kit.html That price includes premium rings. The good thing about these pistons is that "Bore,Ring Pack,and compression Distance changes can be made to any shelf part at no extra charge. Meaning that if you don't see your application listed in the guide,we can make what you need without charging a custom price." I think you might even be able to get a different wrist pin diameter if you want to use aftermarket rods?(not sure,you'll need to call and ask,but if not,the small end bushing with a sbc wrist pin diameter can be honed out to .945",.945"-.927"=.018",which would be .009" per side.) These rods for an example; http://www.ebay.com/itm/190781665008...#ht_1835wt_764 The crank's rod journals will need to be ground down to 1.889",which can be offset gound to stroke the crank to 3.95",or can leave the stroke at 3.85". The rods big end will need to be narrowed,or the rod journals on the crank can be widened for the wider rods?(like they do with 455s when bbc rods are used for the 470 bbb stroker) With a .030" overbore and with an extra .100" more stroke,the 350 would now be a 364 CID engine,plus 14 more cubes. And if its in the budget,a roller cam would be the icing on the cake! Wanted to add that if you get these rods and pistons,that the compession height for the pistons would need to be, 10.187"(deck height) - 6.560"(rod length) = 3.627" - (3.95"/2,half the stroke)1.975 = 1.652 piston compession height needed,with a .100" stroked 350 crank,unstroked would be 1.702"(piston compression height) 1.652 + half of the extra stroke,1.652 + .050" = 1.702". Stroked or unstroked,when(if) you get those pistons,you tell them what compression height you want them to be for no extra charge. If you get those pistons,and use stock rods(try to at least get 1973 or newer sbb 350 stock rods) and the stock stroke,you can order the pistons to get zero deck with minimum machining; 10.187" - 6.385"(stock rod measurement) = 3.802" - 1.925"(half the stroke) = 1.877" compression height to order,and will still allow the block to be square decked taking of minimum to get a zero deck that won't effect your valvetrain geometry(can up compression and still use your stock length push rods).(most stock blocks come from the factory taller than the factory specs) With all of the above is done the rotating assembly will be much lighter(after market rods will be lighter and stronger),enabling you to spin faster thoughout the rpm power band,and make more usable power in higher rpm's. Top it all off with a really good set of ported heads(260+ cfm), and a TA intake,and 500+ NA HP should be very possible with a 10.5:1 compression engine.(a roller cam will really help) Goodluck,and have fun with your sbb 350! Derek
Sure, you can make 400-450 HP.... If you really want you could make more. Use a roller cam from TA, those good pistons from Finishline, well ported heads with oversized valves and it should make plenty of power. The trick is that with the current intakes avalable the RPM range is limited to about 6000 RPM unless you get a custom intake manifold made. That being said stick with a mild camshaft that makes power under that peak RPM, that way you would have good low RPM torque still.
more or less I just a good street car with with decent power. I built this 73 engine (I swear its jinxed, I do my own work far as putting it together and never had any problems even rebuilding tractor engines at mom and dads farm, until this engine, cam went flat in first 50 miles,had Hi-volume oil pump in it a the time and it wore the dist gear badly and now low oil pressure at higher RPM, so I thinking mains and rod bearings are out of clearence because debris may have got in there, I bet the engine and trans has less 3000miles on it) it's been completed rebuilt to almost stock with a Lunati cam Advertised 275/285,balanced rotating assembly, 750 holley carb,headers bolted to th350 with 2500 rpm stall and if I pull the engine to fix bearings I may try to sell Hughes perf. 2500rpm stall and put a remain converter back in and run different gears to lower the cruising rpm (turning 3k at 70MPH currently) Josh
are you running the longer gears or just the plate kit. don't run the long gear set ,it puts way too much stress on distributer gear,and cam gear .can also wipe out front cam bearing. comp cams has a break in additive . there is a reason the cam went flat in 50 miles. improper break in or oil problem. what oil did you use and what weight.
I ran longer gears but I currently have the stock gears back in. I think the reason it takes the dist gear is because the cam floats theres nothing to hold it in unlike some other engines but I'm no scientist. far as the cam going flat Summit tech says that happens more common then most people realize. the 2nd cam looks perfect I just looked at it when I switched intakes. oh...the crazy thing is on the 1st cam it was 1 lifter that didn't build pressure. ---------- Post added at 03:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:01 AM ---------- anyone run a Comp cam (PN#92-602-5 ) Advertisted Duration 295/313 I know Horsepower tv did a build with it and the other thing is granted they used a newer block with everything they did..it really wasn't that impressive for hp and Torque.
Swap in a 2004R trans an get a MUCH lower RPM on the highway. With a 3.42 rear gear and and overdrive trans I will have about 1900 RPM at 70 MPH. An added bonus of the overdrive trans is the lockup torque converter so you can have 100% lockup on the highway and still pick a high stall for getting off the line. That cam you picked will need a loose torque converter or the car will be slow off the line. The main reasons the engine on the video made low HP is because it has low compression, and the later model heads flow terribly.
funny you say that cause a couple of days ago I was looking a 200r4 550hp capability on ebay rebuilt with torque converter for about $1300 with 2 year unlimited Mileage warrentee and no core needed. And on the stall converter I though you could not run below stall rpm otherwise it will burn it up over time. sounds like I need a little more info on this topic. Horsepower tv did use 10:1 pistons, ta perf. intake, larger valves, a mid port job, the 295/313 cam, springs, retainers, lifters, increased oil flow, rebuilt 750 Q-jet, dougs headers and lower end rework. the listing of parts the use is not all listed but if you watch it they show/talk about it. if I use later year rods would that be good for what I'm looking (I live 1 mile from the dragstrip but never been there, I got too much going on).
the later blocks have higher deck(lower comp). also if you look at am&p website(shop of horsepowertv) they have built several 350hp plus engines with a ta 310 cam(499 lift 284dur) their cam is actually loosing power
Call Bobb at Finishline Motorsports and he can tell you the details, but theirs used offset ground crank, e-bay rods, V6 pistons, milled block to get compression up to 8.3:1, ported heads, oversized valves, TA intake. I bought this engine as a donation to Anthony Mackley's Supercharged 350 Buick Skylark. I found the engine for sale in Michigan on line, and made a deal with him to pull the engine out of the 68 Jeep Wagoneer that it was factory installed into and deliver it to Finishline's shop... I heard the engine run over the phone before I bought it and it sounded really healthy. Here it is after Anthony rebuilt the engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zktYYQhCtqU http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?200499-the-dyno-numbers-are-in&highlight=procharger+350+bobb
Run any stall you want to when you have a lockup converter. Isn't it 3rd and 4th gear that locks up? Sounds like a win/win combo to me. Not to mention the 200-4r has a better 1st gear for launching than the TH350 or TH400 (though you can pay big bucks to have the TH400 re-geared in 1st to match what the 200-4r already has). Another alternative is to use the switch-pitch converter with the TH400 if you can't get a better gear ratio, though it won't lock up, it will have a stock RPM low stall. You can also get overdrive bolt-ons for ST300, TH350, and TH400 that give .78 OD, but those require a very shiny penny. If funds weren't an issue, I would personally use a ST300 with that overdrive setup and a 3.73, 3.64, 3.55, or 3.42 gear. But then you won't have a lockup or switch pitch. Best overall I think would be the 200-4r. Use whatever stall and lock it up when you're cruising. Overdrive will offset the numerically higher rear end. ---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ---------- I saw that video too. Even before the numbers were shat out on the dyno I was thinking, this isn't going to make power. They basically just threw it together, painted it, put in the biggest cam they thought would work and fired it up. Sean said it well in another post I believe: Too big of a cam, too low compression, and wrong heads. 300 hp and 350 ft. lbs. is peanuts compared to what it could have made. Heck, the (older) stockers made more power than that! I see it as a mixed blessing. As long as people believe the Buick 350 isn't worth building, it'll give those who use it (properly) more of a stealth effect. --Hey it's a Buick 350! It won't perform all that well...lets race for 100 bucks. On the other hand, it might make aftermarket parts for it even more difficult to get into gear and/or keep the prices up to build it because of the fact that practically everything has to be custom build for it. But for those of us in the know...we'll keep building, driving, and loving our secret weapons. :Brow: That cam would have needed almost 11:1 to be optimal, which was about 2 points more than what it had. It was a classic example of why overcamming an engine does not a performer make. Funniest part of all is how pleased they were at the end on how well it performed! I was like wtf?
Funniest part of all is how pleased they were at the end on how well it performed! I was like wtf?[/QUOTE] I thought the exact samething, I was like "really your happy with that?" the 1970 350 made 315 hp and 410 ft torque. the other thing is how they say "oh well we're choosing to reuse the valve covers and oil pan for this build" hhhmmm I don't know why?
My advice is to build it for torque and let the HP end up where it ends up.... If you used a smaller cam you would make great low RPM torque and the car would be more fun on the street. Horsepower is what people brag about and Torque is what moves a heavy car off the line.
That's what I would do too...build it for torque and let hp end up where it ends up. That's going to be what matters on the street, and is more highway gear friendly. Most driving conditions will put the engine between 1500 and 4000 RPM anyway. Peak power between those two points, with a shift point between 4500-4700 RPM, and overrev potential up to 5500 (not that it would make power much past 5000, but if it 'accidentally' goes to 5500 or so, it won't kill the engine). Stock valve springs can be used. If this sounds good, check out the Crower level 2 cam. :Brow: Specs on it are: .434/.436 @1.55, 202*/210* @.050, 260*/266* advertised. Ground on 112* LSA and has -18* overlap @.050. Tons of vacuum (Cuz, you know, vacuum is heavy ), smooth idle, 9.5:1 compression static @8:1 DCR. Good gas mileage, plenty of low end and mid range grunt, with extended RPM over stock. Lower lift (compared to the more popular cams) and stock spring pressures mean longer cam life. -18* overlap means great vacuum even for higher altitudes. Ideal gearing would probably be a 3.23:1 with a 200-4r trans. Just throwin that out there. :bglasses:
