gas line (furnace)

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by chrome yellow, May 5, 2004.

  1. chrome yellow

    chrome yellow Well-Known Member

    i need to change the gas line running to my furnace. it comes in through the basement wall and runs up through the house to the attic where the furnace is. i want to take out the black pipe and run the new csst flexible pipe. does anyone have any experiance with this? will it be okay to use in my situation? is this csst pipe okay to hook up to the old black pipe?

    any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated. brad.


    b t w , i need to move the line for more room for a drop ceiling in the basement. thanks. :TU:
     
  2. custom

    custom Well-Known Member

    Brad,
    Don't have any advice. Just thought I'd give you a thumbs up for being one brave man.:TU:
     
  3. mitchr

    mitchr Silver Level contributor

    Gas line

    Check out this link. They have a bulletin board where you can post questions about plumbing and piping. I posted a question one time and received some great advice.

    http://www.terrylove.com/
     
  4. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    u can connect the fexible copper gas line to black pipe . there are probably rules that require that the only black pipe can be run from your gas meter ( if outside) into your house . then at some point your can intermix the copper & black pipe . my fireplace gas insert is connected this way with copper pipe , from a t-connection at my furnace to the insert .
     
  5. chrome yellow

    chrome yellow Well-Known Member

    thanks for the link and info. :TU:
     
  6. grant455gs

    grant455gs Well-Known Member

    Not to insult your intelligence, but by being a LICENSED and experienced gas piper

    myself, with several years of gas piping. I have DAILY experience with TracPipe brand CSST (and a couple of others also), in addition to black iron piping. For more than one reason, I DO NOT recommend your use of this material!! :Smarty:

    First of all, I'm HIGHLY CURIOUS to find out which company you'd be purchasing this from? It is ONLY legal for sale to trained and licensed companies/installers! :puzzled:

    Second, in addition to the normal procedures for installation, learned during the Factory training, there are SEVERAL "tricks" to SUCCESSFULLY installing these very special brass fittings (and very expensive!! :eek2: ) into the CSST tubing (which btw stands for corrugated stainless steel tubing, and is not made of copper!) without ruining them resulting in "slow leaks"! OR worse yet, even a MASSIVE GAS LEAK! :error: :ball: Even my "training :rolleyes: ", didn't teach me those "tricks"! Only time and experience. Thank GOD for me being REQUIRED to test all gas piping with 20psi air pressure, otherwise MANY of my leaks would never have been found, ESPECIALLY THE 'SMALL' LEAKS! :Dou:

    TracPipe CSST piping cost is around $5 per/ft vs penny's per/ft for black iron. Fittings REQUIRED for the use of this are at LEAST $10/ea and up!
    Black iron piping is WAAAY MORE RELIABLE, AND MUCH CHEAPER!

    Also, by being an unlicensed and untrained installer, even a homeowner, if any fires or explosions were caused by the improper use of this material, your insurance WOULD NOT cover you in your loss! :Smarty:

    Support your local Gas Piper/HVAC shop!! Get bids from them for this job. Doesn't sound like a big job, shouldn't cost more than couple hundy? Lots of times, if the shop's 'busy', you can get the piper to do this as a "side job"! :Brow: :TU:

    PS: Please FULLY READ THE FOLLOWING WARNING!
    I copied this from the website...




    Warning!
    The TracPipe as piping material (CSST - Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) must only be installed by a qualified person who has been certified or otherwise qualified through the TracPipe Gas Piping Installation Program. Any installer must also meet qualifications in accordance with state and/or local requirements as established by the administrative authority which enforces the plumbing or mechanical code where the gas piping is installed.
    The Design Guide provides general instructions for the design and installation of fuel gas piping systems using gas piping material CSST. The guide must be used in conjunction with state and local building codes. Local codes will take precedence in the event of a conflict between this guide and the local code. In the absence of local codes, installation must be in accordance with the current edition of National Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54 (USA) or Installation codes CAN/CGA-B149.1 & B149.2 (Canada).

    Sound engineering principles and practices must be exercised for the proper design of fuel piping systems, in addition to concurrence with local codes. The installation instructions and procedures contained in the Design Guide must be strictly followed in order to provide a safe and effective fuel gas piping system or system modification. All installations must pass customary inspections by the local official having authority prior to having the gas service turned on. All requirements of the local natural gas utility or propane supplier must also be met Only the components provided or specified by OmegaFlex as part of the approved piping system are to be used in the installation. The use of TracPipe tubing or fittings with tubing or fittings from other flexible gas piping manufacturers is strictly prohibited and may result in serious bodily injury or property damage.
    WARNING!
    If this system is used or installed improperly, fire, explosion or asphyxiation may result.
     
  7. grant455gs

    grant455gs Well-Known Member

    I hope it doesn't feel like I came down on you like a ton of bricks, I'm just concerned!

    If you have ANY questions or comments, PLEASE PM me!!!:TU:
     
  8. DugsSin

    DugsSin Well-Known Member

    Here in NJ I don't think we are even allowed to look at our gas lines without an inspector at our side.
    I understand your wanting to do it yourself, I'm that way too. But with this line runing behind walls and ceilings that old black pipe would be my choice to prevent punctures in the future. I'm not familiar with the other product maybe it's just as strong?
    I wish you 100% tight joints!
     
  9. chrome yellow

    chrome yellow Well-Known Member

    no offense taken, thats why i asked advise. :TU: i had heard about it and wanted to check into it as a option. i had thought i could just replace the old line with csst that already had the ends on it. i dont think i would attempt to put my own fittings on. to much at stake.
    the black pipe snakes around in the basement from where the furnace used to be. old house owners had new one installed in the attic and whoever just ran the line around and up. about 20 feet of line that doesnt need to be there. i did find a pin leak while i was checking the old fittings so it does need to be fixed.
    thanks for the input, brad.

    i did not know that you had to be licensed to buy that line. is this the same thing as they have on the shelf at menards? had not looked at it yet but i thought it was.
    brad.
     
  10. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    [QUOTE is this the same thing as they have on the shelf at menards? [/QUOTE]

    Brad,
    I believe it is the same. I'll check it out when at work tomarrow. I don't believe that you have to be licensed in NE but you might want to check code first. Also I can tell you that In NE it is against code to run flexable gas line through walls or floors or ceilings, must be hard line (black steel).
     
  11. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    Brad, I checked into this at work today and it is CSST that we stock. We also stock a complete line of fittings for it as well. Send me a pm if you'd like to check it out a little closer.
     
  12. chrome yellow

    chrome yellow Well-Known Member

    thanks for checking eric.:TU: i ended up taking apart the line, cleaned up the threads a little and sealed it all back together. i notched a few joists and moved it a bit higher also. more headroom.checked and did not find any leaks. worked out pretty well, and a lot cheaper also.
    thanks to all who replied. brad.
     
  13. grant455gs

    grant455gs Well-Known Member

    I'm glad it all worked out for you Brad!:TU: :)

    If you notched into the BOTTOM part of the floor joists though, that's the part that CARRIES the load....

    On a 'standard' 2x10 joist you should DRILL a hole a minimum 3" up from the bottom, when running a pipe thru joists.... water pipes, gas lines, electrical wires, whatever. Bottom part of joist is where the strength lies.... :Smarty:

    Not knocking on ya, just throwing in my 2 cents worth! :grin:
     
  14. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    No problem Brad, Coincidentaly I work in the dept that sells drop ceilings at Menards. If you need a hand or have a few questions just send me a pm.
     
  15. chrome yellow

    chrome yellow Well-Known Member

    i did notch 2 of the 2x10`s about 1/2 inch. before i did that though i trimmed some new 2x10`s into 2x9`s and fastnened them to the existing joists. from the new steel beam to the new foundation wall.
    this was by far the most challenging home project i ever took on. we started out just having the basement shelved, was only a crawl space before. the guy who dug out under the house with his bobcat left one night and did`nt cover the hole we put in the foundation to get his cat in. poured rain that night and when i got home from work i saw the plastic blowing in the wind. walked around to the other side of the house to secure the plastic sheet and saw that 23 feet of my house was hanging in the air. rain had washed out that much of the old wall. i could not beleive it did`nt slide off the rest of the foundation. scary thing to see.
     

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