I ordered Poston Buick's 455 headers(Pt.#: PE5025) and the engine mounts swap kit (Pt.#: PE70140A). I couldn't use the frame pads because the headers wouldn't fit. I'm using LeSabre frame pads now, but the passenger-side header won't go on. The #2 cylinder tube hits the A-arm, and the #4 cylinder tube hits the engine block where the starter bolt goes when it runs behind the #6 cylinder tube. What should I do? Everything else is on the car and ready, but this header is the only hold up. And it's nothing to do with the x-member, I'm currently using a G-Force double hump x-member. Pics are on Cardomain, ride/2689026
If you can't trim things to get the headers to fit you will probably have to do what I did. I had a fabricator guy move one header tube and re-weld it.
That's what I was thinking too. A bought how much did that run you? I've got one more car to fix, so I don't wanna go to far overboard on this one.
I think I spent about $50.00 but I only paid $40.00 for a brand new set of 2" tube BBB headers from some old country boy out in the woods so I had no money in them. Even though I had a tube moved I still had to do trimming on the passenger side upper "A" frame and other areas. I also run a mini starter and had to rotate it about 90 degrees to keep it off a hearer tube (#6 if I remember correctly). I haven't looked up the orginal part numbers you tried to use for headers/engine mounts but are you sure they won't work together with some trimming?
I got my headers from T/A they are 2" tubes and they hit the upper control arm on the passenger side also. I didn't want to cut the control arm so I purchased a set of tubeular upper control arms.. Problem sloved and saved some weight.. I also purchased the complete motor mount kit from T/A and had no clearance problems with the header hitting the block. But I have seen on other treads guys saying they have taken a grinder to that area to clear the header... " an inch is as good as a mile"
i had the exact same problem. i used a little heat, and a hammer, to "modify" just enough to get past the problems... i also took a little bit off the controll arm with a grinder, not enough to effect it structuraly, just to smooth it out so if i did make contact from the motor moving on the mounts it didn't cut into the header immediatly.
Thanks for the info guys. I had already ground some off of the upper and lower A-arms, but was still having the same problem. I do plan on upgrading to tubular arms in the near future. The header is currently getting the #2 & #4 Cylinder tubes redone so that they clear everything. I'll see how that goes and get back to you guys.
I had the same problem . I used UB MACHINE ( stock car parts) tubular uppers $75 each ( they will make them at any lenght and ball joint style and placement , they bolt right in! sure beats Hoshkins!!) solved the header issue but also sovled the ball joint issue . I'm using 1975 impalla spindles and brakes. ( bigger brakes) I also had to cut a " v " out of the lower control arm mount ( behind bushing area ) hammer in and reweld for header clearance. It is tight but it does fit! I bet I had a dummy block and heads in and out 15 times before I was happy with the fit. Hope that helps? Brad
I got the header done finally, I just need to bolt it up to the block. I'm looking at getting TA's Super Comp headers (2" tube) next, after I upgrade to tubular A-arms.
