Is there anyway to replace the rusty fuse clips in a fuse box? .....and where would you get the clips if they can be replaced? Thanks Rick
i did it years ago before the "www". i used donor parts from a hardtop car to replace the fuse clips in my convertible. i do recall that i soldered the ends after crimping because at the time, the crimpers i had sucked. never had any problems. the most difficult thing about it seemed to be that all the work was done while laying in the floorboard of the car. what automotive wiring experience do you have? what car will be recieving this repair?
My automotive wiring experience is not extensive, however I am very methodical. I think the key would be to take my time. Make sure I have all the schematics available and don't do any of it half-ass. This would seem to be one of those repairs where each step should be checked twice before moving to the next. I'd hate to get it completed and spend the next year chasing down electrical gremlins. I was contemplating getting a Painless fuse box and connecting the exsisting harness into it. My car doesn't need a re-wire. The fuse box has rust and it sure would be nice to have a clean box with the blade type fuses. The car is a '65 Wildcat convertible. I've got a 425 transplant going on now so I won't mess with the electrical until the dust settles on that. I also have the entire dash out for a Vintage Air install so there is easier access to the box. If there is such a thing as easier access to a fuse box. The A/C install also has me thinking about the new box. Thanks Rick
If I ever get to restoring my car, I'll probably convert to a "modern" fuse box with the plastic fuses, and put it somewhere a bit more accessible. I'll probably get one from the junk yard. I have no idea what the part numbers would be, but I would bet NAPA has the clips you need. Getting the box off the firewall and taking it apart will be the difficult part. Be very careful and take your time.
Rick, Try contacting someone at M&H Wiring and see if they will sell you just what you need. http://www.wiringharness.com/ They've got all of that stuff to build a harness, but may only be interested in selling you one. It's worth a shot, anyways. o No: Also, I would check each repaired circuit with an ohm meter to ensure you've got good continuity before buttoning it up and moving on to the next one. Another BIG help is to make a set of enlarged photocopies of the wiring diagrams from the service manual then ink everything in with the appropriate colored markers. It's much easier to look at it in color. :TU: Good luck! :beer
Hmmmm..... I have yet to do this on my current project. Another solution would be to remove the present rust. Someone here suggested catsup!....it's a mild acid, and will eventually remove the rust. There are other products that could remove the corrosion, maybe a muriac, or phosphoric acid....just be carefull! The next step would be to keep the cleaned metal from rusting again, while still maintaining electrical conductivity...... Maybe a quality metal conditioner like Picklex? Anyone else have a solution????
There are colored laminated blow-ups of many of our cars available on Ebay for about $20. They will even upsize them to 11X17 for an additional $5. It's a bit expensive for a page or two from the manual, but like you said it sure is easier to see what you're doing with it all in color!
I think that the issue is really the separation of the fuse block from the harness and reinstall. You could carefully bead blast the clips. There are some electronic sprays to help you with the reversion issue while preserving the conductivity.
I probably got a little ahead of myself here. I need to get the motor in and running before I go ripping out fuse boxes. I saw the thread on the catsup technique. But, I really like the idea of replacing the box with the blade type. The ohm meter test is a good idea Mr. DQ. It wouldn't be much fun doing the rewire more than once. I'll blow up my color diagrams before I do anything...another good idea. Thanks Rick
