Hi all, New to the site and first post. Just got into cars (into bikes my whole life), and got myself a '67 Skylark (300-2). Had a '71 in high school, but that was many moons ago... So I basically know squat about cars. Anyways, I have this nagging problem I was hoping to get some some help with. The GEN light comes on whenever the Wiper/Radio fuse blows out. This fuse will blow out in about 10 minutes of driving. When I turn the ignition off, the GEN light will seem to turn off, but there still seems to be a slight glow. Disconnect the battery, and this glow will disappear. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Here are a couple of links to some articles on the subject. As far as I know, your car has an externally regulated alternator unless it was converted to an internally regulated alt. by a previous owner. http://www.buickperformance.com/alternat.htm <TABLE id=post1466407 class=tborder border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=alt2><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap>Schurkey Status: Offline<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_1466407", true); </SCRIPT> Registered User </TD><TD width="100%"></TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap>Join Date: May 2002 Location: the Seasonally Frozen Wastelands Posts: 1,786 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- / user info --></TD></TR><TR><TD id=td_post_1466407 class=alt1><!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- icon and title --> Re: Alternator Light Problem Please Help <HR style="COLOR: #9fb2b8" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Several things: Quote: <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by LARRY70GS Read this article and make sure the wiring is correct. Your 71 did not come with an internally regulated alternator. It was added, wiring may be incorrect, or the alternator and/or regulator may be defective. http://www.buickperformance.com/alternat.htm </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> 1. Those instructions for wiring the alternator seem to be based on the advice/schematic supplied by MAD Electrical; they WILL work--but--they reverse the color codes of the wires at the alternator from GM specification. I consider the reversed color codes to be a mistake--which is why I developed my own schematic. GM intends the BLUE (sometimes red) wire to be connected to the alternator "2" or "F" terminal; the other wire--which can be black, black with white tracer, or white--is supposed to be connected to the "1" or "I" terminal. 2. Is the light on at FULL BRIGHTNESS or somewhat dimly? A dim generator warning light is a common symptom of a failed "diode trio" INSIDE the alternator. 3. Connecting the "red" wire in the two-wire plastic connector directly to the rear of the alternator is an ENTIRELY VALID way of doing things--but--it's not the BEST way. Ideally, you'd extend that wire--or use the original wire from the OEM harness (it's usually blue on our older vehicles)--all the way to the old EXTERNAL regulator connector; and then jumper it to the #3 position in that same otherwise-unused external regulator plastic connector. This allows the alternator regulator to sense voltage at a remote location, AFTER some of the voltage drop due to slightly-corroded connections and undersize wire has already taken place. 4. If the BROWN wire in the external regulator harness (#4 position in the diagram above) is NOT connected to the white wire in your plastic two-wire connector on the alternator--yeah, the dash light is gonna be on. The dash light gets power from the dash on one side of the bulb; turning it off involves applying power from the alternator (via that white wire) so that the voltage on both sides is approximately equal; and no current flows. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> <TABLE id=post1466407 class=tborder border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=alt2><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap>Schurkey Status: Offline<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_1466407", true); </SCRIPT> Registered User </TD><TD width="100%"></TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap>Join Date: May 2002 Location: the Seasonally Frozen Wastelands Posts: 1,786 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- / user info --></TD></TR><TR><TD id=td_post_1466407 class=alt1><!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- icon and title --> Re: Alternator Light Problem Please Help <HR style="COLOR: #9fb2b8" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Several things: Quote: <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by LARRY70GS Read this article and make sure the wiring is correct. Your 71 did not come with an internally regulated alternator. It was added, wiring may be incorrect, or the alternator and/or regulator may be defective. http://www.buickperformance.com/alternat.htm </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> 1. Those instructions for wiring the alternator seem to be based on the advice/schematic supplied by MAD Electrical; they WILL work--but--they reverse the color codes of the wires at the alternator from GM specification. I consider the reversed color codes to be a mistake--which is why I developed my own schematic. GM intends the BLUE (sometimes red) wire to be connected to the alternator "2" or "F" terminal; the other wire--which can be black, black with white tracer, or white--is supposed to be connected to the "1" or "I" terminal. 2. Is the light on at FULL BRIGHTNESS or somewhat dimly? A dim generator warning light is a common symptom of a failed "diode trio" INSIDE the alternator. 3. Connecting the "red" wire in the two-wire plastic connector directly to the rear of the alternator is an ENTIRELY VALID way of doing things--but--it's not the BEST way. Ideally, you'd extend that wire--or use the original wire from the OEM harness (it's usually blue on our older vehicles)--all the way to the old EXTERNAL regulator connector; and then jumper it to the #3 position in that same otherwise-unused external regulator plastic connector. This allows the alternator regulator to sense voltage at a remote location, AFTER some of the voltage drop due to slightly-corroded connections and undersize wire has already taken place. 4. If the BROWN wire in the external regulator harness (#4 position in the diagram above) is NOT connected to the white wire in your plastic two-wire connector on the alternator--yeah, the dash light is gonna be on. The dash light gets power from the dash on one side of the bulb; turning it off involves applying power from the alternator (via that white wire) so that the voltage on both sides is approximately equal; and no current flows. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=184718&highlight=mad+electrical If you look at the second link, post #9, by Schurkey, there is a really good diagram and explanation of how the Gen. light works. I hope that helps!
Thank you very much for the replies. I will try the suggested wiring diagram. Why would it be that the GEN light only comes on when the wiper fuse blows out? Would it just be easier if I got a one wire internally regulated alternator?
In the information from Schurkey it states that the Gen. light always has voltage at one side of the lamp and that a properly functioning charging system applies voltage to the other side of the lamp, thus cancelling current flow through the lamp. No current flow through the lamp means the lamp goes out even though there is (equal, balanced) voltage present at both sides of it. Your blown wiper fuse suggests that the balanced voltage at the Gen. lamp is no longer balanced. Based on my recent experience with engine wiring harnesses shorting out I suggest you go under the hood and check the wires to the wiper motor and make sure that another hot wire or ground source is not coming in contact with the wiper motor circuit. This would explain the repeated blowing of wiper circuit fuses. Another possibility is that the wiper motor has an internal short that is intermittent. One way to isolate a problem is by unplugging suspected items one at a time or by pulling fuses one at a time.
Here is what was stated earlier. I said the same thing with about twelve times as many words. 4. If the BROWN wire in the external regulator harness (#4 position in the diagram above) is NOT connected to the white wire in your plastic two-wire connector on the alternator--yeah, the dash light is gonna be on. The dash light gets power from the dash on one side of the bulb; turning it off involves applying power from the alternator (via that white wire) so that the voltage on both sides is approximately equal; and no current flows.
Your problem is in transmission. Solenoid wire to front pump is grounded. It's on same circuit. Richard
Holy cow, that IS specific! No offense, but it sounds so out of the blue that it seems like a joke. Since I know so little about electrical stuff, that suggestion sounds WAAAAY oddball. I will hunt for the solenoid wire though, and hopefully nail that short down. Thank you all for the extremely detailed and helpful responses!
