Front spring removal - need help

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by John Annecone, Nov 12, 2018.

  1. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    The only time you replace a control arm is if the lower ball joint hole gets too "large". If the control arm has seen a couple ball joint replacements, the hole the ball joint presses into gets worn. Or if the control arm bushing is so worn, the cross shaft wears through the outer shell of the bushing and starts cutting into the control arm itself. And even at that point, as long as the bushing presses in, your GTG.

    As far as wheel bearings, pour some mineral spirits in a plastic pan and use a parts cleaning brush to clean them thoroughly. Once clean, I use some compressed air to blow them dry. Inspect the rollers. Unless there is any galling or pitting in the rollers, I re-use them. No sense in replacing perfectly good parts. Inspect the races in the drum for the same. If the races are clean and smooth, repack the bearing and put the rotors back on. The only thing I replace as a matter of course are the grease seals and cotter pins. Never re-use a cotter pin
     
  2. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    You can rent a ball joint press from any parts store. Super easy to use. If a bushing doesn't have a tight interference fit then the arm will need to be changed
     
  3. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    Arms are pretty bullet proof . You have everything covered . You will be surprised with the ride
     
  4. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    Jason is correct . If you clean the bearings , and they are ok , you can repack them and re-use them . Don't forget to order wheel sea;ls .

    Another thing if you do replace the bearings it is mandatory to replace the race too . NEVER use a new bearing on a old race
     
  5. John Annecone

    John Annecone Active Member

    Sorry, I meant the control arm shaft, not the control arm itself. That bar that has the upper control arm bushings on it.
     
  6. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Unless they're bent, they're usually good to go as well.
     
  7. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Be very careful on front springs. Never use anything called heavy duty. Some of these things will put your car on the moon.
     
  8. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    This is a great article. The 5398 springs are what you want for the front. I have used them on my GSX. I think they are pretty much the same with that number no matter who you get them from. Also my car had no AC and they were fine.
    http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/springs.htm
     
  9. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Oops, I just noticed you have a Le Sabre. You are on your own with spring selection.
     
  10. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    Ive always had good luck with rockauto
    Most recently I got a set of goodmark lower control arms loaded with new bushings and ball joints. Fit was perfect.
     
  11. John Annecone

    John Annecone Active Member

    I swapped out the 350 for a 455 some time ago. I didn't notice any issue with the front end sitting low when I did so, but it's possible I wasn't paying close enough attention.
    Would you expect that I should buy springs for a 455 car, or stick with parts for the 350? I also put in the TH400 at the same time. I just don't know how much the springs would vary based on the engine.
     
  12. John Annecone

    John Annecone Active Member

    Hi, need some advice on this again.
    I got one side out - all good. Went to do the other side the same way by putting the jack below but not touching the spring cradle. Removed cotter pin on lower ball joint and went to loosen the nut on the ball joint. Problem is that the ball joint "stud" turns with the nut so I can not loosen the nut. Make sense?
    Am I just totally missing something?
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
     
  13. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Jack up on the lower control arm to remove the weight of the spring off it
     
  14. John Annecone

    John Annecone Active Member

    Did it with weight on per manual, but obviously that didnt work so will jack it up tomorrow. Thanks
     
  15. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Be sure to take the nut all the way off, then lower the jack about an inch and a half and then strike the spindle on the strike pad
     
  16. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    What I do is jack under the ball joint with a floor jack. This forces the tapered ball joint stud into the spindle more, creating more friction. Loosen and remove the ball joint nut with the floor jack still in place. Reinstall the ball joint nut, a couple of threads, remove the floor jack, club the spindle @ the taper, and the spring forces the ball joint stud out of the taper. Jack up a little under the ball joint again, remove the nut, and slowly lower the jack again. I think you can get it from here. Be carefull. You can loose a finger pretty quickly if you make a mistake.
     
  17. John Annecone

    John Annecone Active Member

    It wont work!
    I tried with the jack on the A-arm, tried with the jack on the ball joint, tried with the jack not on anything. Nothing worked. the ball joint stud keeps turning whenever I turn the nut.
    The only thing is that the car is up on jack stands already. Not sure if that's the case in Bob's example above.
    Anyone ever have this problem? Driver side came apart no problem.
     
  18. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Put an impact on it , you have to use a swivel and extension. Or one of the only times I ever use a pickle fork is when the stud is turning have some one put a foot on it while it's in there and then operate the impact
     
    DasRottweiler likes this.
  19. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    ^^^
    x2 on the impact wrench. The sudden impulses of the torque "on/off from a torque wrench will almost always work.

    Sometimes low air pressure and "continual hammering" work better than "high pressure" that breaks the friction hold on the part you do not want to spin.

    Kroil or 50/50 acetone/tranny fluid may help.

    (but careful if you are using torch, as the acetone and flame make ugly friends.)
     
  20. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I always use a pickle fork to break things loose. Saves a lot of effort and problems.
     

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