Had to use a hardener in the paint due to not being able to paint it all at one time . It's got gloss to it but I like it . Steve
I`ll have to post some pics of mine. I picked up the frame,rearend and all the control arms from the powdercoaters last week.All I can say is "wow". Yours looks just like mine does now...in a million pieces:laugh: ,looks great BTW. Now is where we begin to spending some money,new lines,bushings,rebuilt steering box,etc. Why did I do this again?:grin: :grin: :grin:
How much did it cost to have the frame sand blasted and poweder coated? You can PM me if youdon't want it to be listed.
Looks great with the gloss. The last frame that I did only got standard chasis black and I didn't like it. I will use gloss next time. My frame will be gloss this winter if things go like I plan.
Black ...... Thanks for the Kudos' folks . John , I used cheapo (Valspar) chassis black , the gloss comes from using hardner in the paint . I did this because of my first chassis black job on my wifes 65' Mustang . I missed a couple of spots and hit the spots few days later . The paint lifted ,had to strip it completely and redo . I called the shop where I got the paint and told them I would be painting the Buick frame in stages and that the paint had lifted on the Mustang when I spot painted a few days later. So the hardner was recommended just as long as I didn't mind the higher gloss . I like it alot better so I'm going all the way where Black is needed. The gloss is not a mirror type gloss but alot brighter than without the hardener . I got several more parts sand blasted tonite possibly finish up Monday . I'm boxing the control arms then everything left will be painted to whatever I dream up . I can say I'll aslo be using "Stovebright" Charcoal paint for the cast appearance in places and clear in others . I've already got my springs and complete bushing sets on hand . Man.. I'd love to have a Powder Coated undercarriage . I'm envious !!! If you take a look at my engine you'll see what I mean about the Stovebright Paint . Stovebright can be found in major building centers ie. Lowes , Home Depot etc.and also Wood Stove dealers . It ain't cheap so get ready , $7-9.00 a can . But give a set of manifolds 2-3 coats and they look sharp. I'll keep the pics. coming as I can . I've got a few days of work to get Chillis' Mustang running for the first time in over 2 yearsou: Later, Steve
Steve, Your right about the paint lifting when repairing a scratch or missed area. I was detailing my engine compartment last month and used Duplicolor clear on my core support. After noticing a scratch on it, I re-applied the black which caused a mess! Paint raised all over the area. Turned out to be the Duplicolor clear. This was the high heat clear, and I don't reccomend it. I do like most Eastwood paints. That is where I get my chasis black from. But, the best spray paint I have ever had my hands on is sold by Kimball Midwest!!! Their Blacks are awesome. Covers great, and the gloss looks like it came from a gun! Expensive, but it only takes half as much as normal spray paint because it covers so well. If you have acess to any, I would get it to help finish the job on your car. Keep us posted on your progress.
Back in Black The car is a 72' Skylark Custom with the Halo Top option that I'm not real fond of . I've never heard of Kimbal Northwest . What kind of stores carry the brand ? Yep , Duplicolor and Plasticoat both will lift if you try to spot paint them with the clears or colors . I did my 455 with Plasticoat / Clear and had the same problem . I've found from experiance that they need to cure about a month . I think i'm gonna run a test and put coats of paint on something (old valve covers/oil pan) and date them , then see just how long the cure is before you can spot paint them . Steve
http://www.kimballmidwest.com/ A local saleswoman comes to the shop and gets my order, but here is their link. They have tons of items for resto work. Their abrasives are very nice too.
How are you guys applying the paint? I just picked up my new 67 project and plan to get started on the engine bay, firewall, and chasisi this week. I haven't much experiance with painting (I've done a bit on my 69 and it seems to be holding up). Do you strip the parts down to metal, primer and paint? Does the paint go on all at once or over the course of a few days? Do you even use a primer on high temp parts? I'll get it done regardless, but it would be nice if I didn't have to do it more than once. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Aubrey Oh, and the frame for the lark looks great. Keep us posted.
First, I use a steam cleaner with purple power cleaner and allow 1 day to dry. I use no primer with high heat paint. I bead blast all the smaller parts to bare metal. Aircraft paint remover on most of the external parts on the engine. I use a die grinder and abrasives or brushes to remove the old paint from as much of the block as possible. If it is fresh from the shop it will not be painted. Paint the high heat in a couple thin coats. I have not had good results with a thick painting on engines. I remove everything from the firewall and hand sand with 400 grit, then use a prep cleaner and scrub the area prior to primer. VHT makes a good spray sandable primer (also doesn't raise badly like some cheap primers). I allow the primer to dry several hours and lightly sand it with 600 grit, then apply my first layer of paint. Topped off about 30 mins later with one more layer. A paint gun and mixed paint will make a nicer job, but the cars I have been detailing are basically fully assembled and I can control the cans better in small places.
If you had that frame work done in Canada (like I regretfully did) it would probably have cost you about $20,000.00 and would have taken 2-3 years. Your project looks great! Nice work. Larry DiStefano "71 GS Stage 1" (now in the capable & honest hands of Jim Weise):grin:
