I think the light came on due to wheel spin.. I would get it hooking consistently before making a change like that.
Looks like your sitting on the chip at 4500......it goes into wheel spin basiclly b4 it leaves the line.......it really looks alot like just flat over powering everything.........and its a great way to break and wreck. I would had have to go back and leave easier till I find where I can launch to figure out more information But pulling the rear tire off the ground will never work.......sometimes going slower nets going faster. It handles the power down track.......its just at the hit .....find a way to ramp the power in
First couple times out I was leaving at 4500. Got the 2 step down to 3800 now. I think John said he was leaving at 2500. After I mount the slicks we'll go back hopefully with a guy that knows what he's looking at.
There are a few issues that I see.The front shock is way loose it jerks the front end up way to violent.Next the wheelie bars are to low for the track conditions and front shock setting.Finally either the anti roll bar is not up to the job or something is wrong with it.Imo that car should not twist up that much at the drop of the button.If the arb is ok something in the chassis is not happy. Now look at the pic that was clipped from the video.The wheelie bars are buried into the track and that is what caused the wheel spin.Look at how deformed they are. Is the torque convertor for this motor or what came with the car.It may be to tight.A loose convertor (atleast at the hit) normally helps you get the car off the starting line.You need way more data before that is determined.If it isn't a convertor built for that motor I would talk with the manufacturer and the engine builder and see what they say.
This is a total different level of car to my what my 10sec 3600 lbs car is so how "it works" can be drastically different......and I have 0 experience with a car this fast of wheelie bats in general........but the 1st half second of this launch is very ruff......... It just looked wrong on the bars to me for whatever reason........like it blew through them and hiked the drivers side rear tire up enough to unload it........and when that happened the front crashes down the rom spikes and now your skating.
That thing had already broke traction and the front tires had just left the beams......the red light hadn't even turned on yet and your up to 7500. Not sure where you tring to shift at but it was about 7500 on the shift and hit the chip b4 the finish.
Never had these issues when I had it. Made hundreds of 8.90 and better passes at 159 Get a set of tires so you can get the car to leave properly. Also you cannot shift that car at 6000 rpm and run the full track. That is why it is hitting the Rev limiter. You are gonna end up hurting that engine bouncing off the limiter like that. Shift it higher. I know your power curve is different but I shifted it at 6800rpm and went thru the traps at 6800. If it was good air and fast mph it would rpm more. That car is a great car with a great chassis. I know what people on here and Facebook say to try but just trust me. Between denny and myself we put 1000 runs on that car. Get tires Make a full pass shifting higher so you can see if the converter is correct. . I used a starting line rpm controller that I could adjust how hard to leave. Anywhere from 4000 to on the converter. The car will work. Just take baby steps. My guess with that pass there and my calculations it can go 8.50 in good air. With the 100 pounds less and more torque than my motor it should be right there depending on trans gear and converter. John jr
Hadnt seen this thread in a while.Thinking there must be more than one going on with the same topic. Either that or Im just dreaming that I'd updated the info. Heres where we're at now, installed the slicks, made a small adjustment to the front shock travel and 2 clicks loose on the rear shocks. Before I had a chance to get back to the track a friend decided to update the grid on his pro stock car and I bought his old stuff to install in the Hawk. Been putting that together and am close to finishing. The system will read drive shaft speed so I'll know what the converter that JW had built for the combo is doing what its supposed to. Feeling like the next time out we're gonna see some progress and maybe make a good hit. After that its just about dialing it in on the laptop. Kenny and Cory will be going with to watch and adjust as needed
Friday I'll be taking the car down to Bradenton Motorsports park to join in a private rental with a couple pro stock teams for the day. Kenny and Cory Voss will be coming with. I'll be able to make as many hits as needed on a well prepped track and have the exp of those guys as well as tools to make whatever changes needed. All goes well theres a bracket / index race in Gainesville on Sat. that I could take part in. BG is coming up fast and I'll need all the seat time I can get to make a good showing. All its been doing of late is traveling to car shows, cruise in's and Johns get together. Sort of like a traveling "Cackle Fest"
Track day went better than expected but still did not get to eliminations in Open Comp. Car is leaving better even without any help from the Grid system. felt like its getting loose around 330' After Q2 it seemed like the water pump was not working so I called it a day just in case. Also noticed I have some rim slip on the slicks and the Vac pump seems not to be doing vac stuff after the second run. All stuff to get worked out this week
With those 60-foot times, you might want to go to beadlocks. I know when I bought those wheels, they can have the beadlock added to them. The best i ever went was 1.25 and you are 1.18.
Just like John said. The real deal ones. Those 60's are more than we ever hit it with. You should be able to look up the manufacturer on those wheels and they sell the beadlock. or check into what Ethan said.
So I took a good look at the water pump and aside from being 1/2 gal low on water didnt find anything wrong with it. Made the mistake of pulling the motor off and the brushes fell out. required some brain work to get it back together. Where did the water go? Found that out too. reached in to fire the car and my foot got wet. Water shooting out of the header. Pulled the plugs and water shooting out of # 5 cylinder. S--t now what..
