First car, 1960 Buick LeSabre 4 Door.

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by Jamezterr, Jul 15, 2010.

  1. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    Well heya, I guess a good place to start would be that I am new around these parts.

    I recently purchased my first car at the age of 20, and it so happens to be a 1960 Buick Lesabre 4 Door Hardtop, I was looking for a nice classic and happened to run into a good deal on a running Lesabre with a very solid body. ( 1,100 bucks )
    Shows 24k Miles, but who knows it could be 124k, but I am inclined to say it really is just 24k miles.
    Chrome is all there and very nice.

    The only things I believe it really needs, is a nice new paint job, redone interior, and perhaps some tuning up.
    ( Don't get me wrong the car purrs and it revvs beautifully )


    Heres the deal though, when working with this car my knowledge is very limited, so I am here seeking your gracious help. :)
    ( Going for restoration, not into the moded stuff )


    Tips or anything of the sort is always welcome.
    ( I'll be updating and posting new problems, or solutions I have found periodically. )



    1st: I would like to know how hard it would be to find, or re-create the inside door panels to this car?

    2n: Any suggestions on the paint job type stuff?

    3rd: When bought the vehicle never had a radio put in, but the guy I got it from said he found an old Buick radio that fits, but when I looked there was no sign of there ever being an Antenna on the car.
    Would I have to drill a small hole, and attach one myself?

    4th: How hard is it working with these kind of cars speedometer, electrical and the such?


    Sorry if these questions are rather idiotic, but thanks for the help.

    - I'll post pics when my post count is 10 +
     
  2. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    Well, most of us are on a first name basis here on this board.... now, that said, the very first thing you need to buy for that car is a shop chassis manual, and a body shop manual... these books are pricey but will save you far more than they cost,,,, they will save you a ton of money and give you a ton of knowledge about how to maintain the car.... good accurate knowledge, not someones opinion...
    There are old fossils here at this site, [like me] who love mentoring the younger ones.... you have found the best Buick site going......
    Back when that car was new the proceedure for installing a radio was to cut a hole in the fender with a hole saw to install the antenna mast... in the kit was a template to locate the hole.... now since then the radios have come a long way and a modern radio is the way to go... but also there is modern radios that look like the old ones when installed.... ck with classic auto sound, or just google vintage car radios and ck out the posibilities...
    For the upholstry , find a good shop close to you and have them ck the car out... they will not charge to give you a estimate.... but you can do a lot of things your self....
    in fact , knowledge is power,,, and money,,,, you can cut the cost by learning to do all that you can ,,,,, labor is the most expense of maintaining a car....
    Also, be double sure you put in zddp additive to the engine oil each and every time you change oil and filter... if you dont you will 100% sure destroy the engine..... the oils now days dont have zinc additive in them any more.... and any engine with a flat tappet cam in it has to have it to survive.... dont overlook this, you will destroy the engine.....
     
  3. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    Ah thanks for the advice. :-3

    We recently had it looked at, and it seems to have no rust under the car, body is in great shape, Oil looks clean, maybe they converted it.

    Under the car its all coated, basically it looks like the car just sat for a while, but was really taken care of.

    Only thing we don't know much about is the electrical work in the dash area.
    The speedometer flickers a bit, but it doesn't work properly, it has me wondering if its just physically stuck in there or if there is a shortage.

    Will keep you posted thanks.
     
  4. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    Welcome! Although I'm new to the board, I've my Buick for 40 years. This is a great place to learn about your Buick. I should've got on here years ago!
    Bulldog
     
  5. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    Thanks for the warm welcome. :)
     
  6. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    Most of the time the thing that causes the speedo to jump is that it needs lubrication,,,, unscrew the cable right at the back of the speedo head and pull the center cable out,,,, then clean it up and smear vaseleline petrolium over it as you slide it back into the housing cable.....
     
  7. kevin mcculloug

    kevin mcculloug 72 GS 455 Convertible

    If your 1960 Buick is your first car, and its a four door & baby blue, you must be Brad Hamilton! ( Fast Times at Ridgemont High) Welcome aboard and enjoy your "cruising vessel" !:beer
     
  8. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    "1st: I would like to know how hard it would be to find, or re-create the inside door panels to this car?"

    SMS can redo the door panels back to original but it may cost you more than you paid for the car. www.smsautofabrics.com


    These are neat cars but at 20 I would not want to depend on this car as my primary means of transportation.
     
  9. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    That it is. :)

    Thanks doc and flyn, will try that with the speedometer and let you know how it pans out.

    Think I am gonna bring the side panels down to a shop that I've been referred to and see what they can do.

    For a first car yeah probably not as dependable as all these newer cars, but I don't go much of anywhere, the farthest drive I would probably put on it every few days would be about 14 miles or so.

    Btw do you guys recommend putting a 2nd break line in, so its safer?


    Thanks for the help and input guys, it is very appreciated.
     
  10. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Where are you at in MN? I'm in the Twin Cities.
     
  11. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    A small town up north by the name of " Eveleth ", its an hour from Duluth, and about 30 mins from Hibbing.

    Everyone is always from the cities it seems.
     
  12. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    Oh yea, I've heard of Eveleth. My cousins fiance is from there.

    I'm actually north of Duluth at the cabin right now. Right around Canyon and Cotton. Probably only about half an hour from you.

    And BTW, welcome to V8 :beer !
     
  13. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    Ah cool, ty. :-3

    Around Cotton you say, I have a Cabin right in Cotton on the lake, yeah its about 20 mins or so away.
     
  14. Here's mine: don't. That car is the color of everyone's favorite pair of old faded blue jeans. You may be able to shine it up with some rubbing compound (go easy with this), at least better than it is..

    On the mechanical & electrical stuff, both are addressed in the chassis service manual, as someone else pointed out, a "must-have." Available online in various places, including HERE. Get it, read it, sleep with it under your pillow. Check also Buick Parts Directory for other resources - parts, literature, everything.

    Congratulations on your Buick!
     
  15. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    Ok will do on the manual, thanks. :TU:

    About the paint job though, my avatar may not show it, but it really does need a paint job.
    It sat under what I believe to be some pine trees, which have a high acidic content, it ate away at some spots of the paint and the top pretty bad.

    When I have enough posts I will post some high res pics.
     
  16. Depending on how bad the sap is, yeah, I could see it especially on the roof but only IF the paint has so thinned that you now have surface rust coming through.

    Still, "unmolested" cars in reasonably good shape for their age are not necessarily far less valuable than their frame-off counterparts, especially when you factor in how much (or little) you have put into it. A car with a "discount" paint job is probably worth LESS than one with its original, albeit faded factory paint. From the sound of it, you're already money ahead. :TU:
     
  17. Jamezterr

    Jamezterr Classic Enthusiast

    Yeah I agree with you, I wuld not want it painted if it only had a few imperfections, I like original stuff.

    There is surface rust on the roof though, also a tiny, tiny bit on the trunk end.

    Not really gonna skimp on the paint job, although I don't need the car show quality, I do want it to be a good paint job, can't skimp on that.
    It will be painted the same color as when new, it just wont have that faded look.
    How difficult would it be to find the same color ya think?

    Going to try and keep everything as unmolested and original as possible.

    I just ordered the trunk weather seal, soon to order a couple other door seals aswell.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2010

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