Finally forged pistons available for the Buick 350

Not sure if hypers would be the answer to your build with forced induction. N/A is more what I was referring to. Forged might be your best bet, though you can get deep dished forged too.

Something like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-wl2481f30/overview/make/buick

Speed Pro's pistons (according to the pic) have more of a rounded edge on the step instead of the steeper slope on other forged pistons I saw there.

Rounded = better design

 

Don't forget zeroing block takes away valve clearance and requires new pushrod length in most cases which adds to the expense of the wrong parts.just my theory.

 

Putting higher CH pistons in there will bring them closer to zero deck so it doesn't matter either way for valve clearance concerns. Push rods aren't very expensive, considering the cost of the rest of it, plus you're shaving off even more weight from the engine and making it more centralized by lowering the CH and milling the block. I know it's not by much but small numbers make big differences with engines.

These are just some things to consider.

---------- Post added at 08:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 PM ----------

These aren't the wrong parts. You can spend more money on custom pistons if you want plug n play, but off the shelf stuff is made to fit a generalized spectrum of applications, and 'some assembly is required' meaning you have to do some cutting and fitting here and there, but the heads and block have to be machined anyway to true them up.

If you want to get technical, anything other than the OEM parts are 'the wrong parts' which includes cast piston sitting deep in the hole, the French tickler bump stick they call the OEM stock cam, complete with casting burs left in place on head runners, mushy valve springs, etc. etc.

You just have to find where you're willing to draw the line when it comes to building it. If you're wanting to stroke it out, that's a ****ton of extra money right there that could be better spent elsewhere, IMO for your money. Leaving the rotating assembly stock with capscrew rods shotpeened and cleaned up with light pistons will serve you quite well.

I'm not trying to disagree with you, there's just so many ways of going about it. You can take my suggestions for what they are. Just tryin to be helpful.

 

Don't worry Gary,we won't keep the build Andy and I are working on a secret,just dropped the block off at the machine shop and a lot of people will be surprised on this one.:Brow:

Derek

 

Yes Gary we accept what we need to do to make the engine run properly .would be nice if stuff was what is supposed to be.

 

Please take lots of pictures and make a thread about the build!

 

It's all good fellas. I was just making a comment about pistons in general, I wasn't really hinting at any suggestions toward Andy's build until he started talking about it.

 

Its cool Gary,don't worry about it,that was still good info for someone looking to do a less ambitious build.:eek2:

I'm hoping to hit 500 HP without boost,that will be a very hard number to hit with lower compression though,but I'm going to try.:Brow:

Just dropped off the block Sunday,and it will probably sit there for a few weeks before anything is done to it,but when there is more progress I'll start a thread about it,I'm hoping to have it put together by May the latest and dynoed.o No:

As long as the block passes the magna flux test and sonic test,it will proceed to the next step.ray:
I asked the engine machinist to take pictures:kodak: of all the steps of the machining process the block will go through as there done,and if he remembers,he will.:TU:



Derek

 

Derek,
clear out your inbox.

 

Made some room.

 

Well we know that 550 HP can be done at 8:1 and no boost so just work on those heads and you can do it!!! My advice is to shoot for 9:1 compression as it will have better low RPM torque vs 8:1... Only go to 8:1 if you want to boost 20 PSI.

 

Yeah,the cam was probably optimized for a N/A setup for that build? o No: But would be SWEET if we could hit those numbers pre-boost!:idea2:

We were going to shoot for around 8.5 to just under 9:1,but the final decision will be up to Andy. With an intercooler I would think that @ 8.5:1, 20 psi would be OK? But the boost end of this will be Andy's fun,I'm just trying to build this so it will stay together for whatever Andy wants to throw at it.(within reason of coarse,LOL)

So Andy,how much boost do you want to shoot for? At 10 psi should give a 50% HP increase,and @ 500 HP would = 750 HP. @ 20 psi,what would the HP be?:shock: Or even 30 psi?:eek2: Or even if it could handle 30 psi? If it was for me,I would do a max effort N/A premium pump gas build around 10 - 11:1(depending on the cam),and shoot for 600HP,but I don't have a car setup with a cage for the boosted power level that this would make.


Thats one of the reasons I was looking into a girdle for this build,if I can't get one i will make it myself.:Browor if the cost is to high to buy one)


Derek

 

Since we only have 4 bolts per cylinder for claiming force on the head and I wanted more lower end power I figure about 8.7 compression ratio with a max of 12 to 14 psi. Conservatively this should give great durability and longevity to the engine and still make incredible power.I would like it to be supercharged but turbocharged seems to be slightly more affordable. Either way that will be later in the build,looking at a water to air cooler and air to air , still determining my needs.I figure the higher compression will make more lower end torque .Also considering E85 use.

 

I agree that these engines should be boosted 10-18 PSI at most.... Anything more than that is asking for trouble.

Keep in mind that 420 HP NA made 630 HP at 5 PSI s unless you have a car ready to run 10s 5-8 PSI is plenty.

 

WOW!! 50% more HP with 5 psi of boost,again,wow!! Never realized that when I read the thread before now.:idea2:

I'm not a boost guy(my pockets aren't that deep to be,lol)but this will be put together to handle some power. I see what you guys are saying about the heads with only 4 bolts per cylinder though,like I said,the boost end of this will be up to Andy to sort out.

Andy,you might want to keep your Regal,its already setup for this level of power to be in the 10s,might even be able to tickle the 9s,8s? with this engine with the right tune and right amout of boost?

If you want,I can look into O-ringing the block if you want to crank up the boost later.(Don't know what the crank will handle after a certain point though) I will check on a billet crank for you if you win the lottery(LOL),or sell one of your cars?(we still have time to look into that,I sent the question anyway,the crank could get some more stroke that way and keep the rod journals @ 1.850",just out of my curiosity I had to ask.lol,stock crank should be fine to 800 HP?maybe,this is still uncharted waters,we'll have to wait and see how hard you push it:Brow

Derek

 

630 HP in my slightly lighter regal body could be crazy fast fun.I'm sure the 8.5 Moser rear is up to it.

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------

We are cutting crank a little more than we should so stockpile standard cranks.lol! That's why I'm slightly conservative on the boost.But if clearances are good to put stroke a little farther then maybe a custom crank on next one.maybe this will get some others to bring up the level of their builds.