well I have the doors lined up good with 1/4 panels Problem with this upper curved area on BOTH fenders .... tried spacing -+ on all points and also lifting/lowing core support and nothing . This is mind boggling and very easy for someone to go insane ...:shock: what am I doing wrong here ....Help! View attachment 292669 View attachment 292668
I am not a body man and don't play one on TV. Just a thought will the door adjust away from the body mostly looks like the top hinge door side adjustment might get it closer. Are those original fenders or NOS or Donors? I know we had to reweld some braces on one NOS fender we used.
Have you adjusted/shimmed the fender bolts that are in the door jamb. Also shim under the bottom fender bolt to "stretch" the fender down and straight. And don't forget to measure the hood opening both across, for the correct width to fit the hood. And corner to corner to make sure the opening is square. LMK if you have any issues lining up the hood. I have done many of them.
Make sure you have the door weatherstrip you are going to use mounted on the door first. It is normal to have to use shims and washers to fine tune the sheet metal adjustments. Picking up the front of the fender closes the gap to the door. Jacking up the frame under the door pillar will open up the gap. The in and out adjustment can be made by shimming the top fender mounting bolts out. Since it is not painted, do not be afraid to use a body spoon to tweak the sheet metal edges. The door is also very adjustable. Set the height first, then move the in and out adjustments where it needs to be. Take the striker off before making any door adjustments. It is also easier to adjust the fender with the hood removed.
Man do I ever feel your pain. My passenger door is somewhat ok, but my driver's door is a joke. I'm in the same boat. I tinkered with mine for hours. Got it to the point where I thought it was pretty good. Got in the car, rolled up the window and you could almost put your hand in between the window and the seal. Back I went, futzed some more. Got the window looking better, but now the alignment to the panel is way off. Ugh... So yeah, going to have to take mine to an expert soon too.
Steve, you can adjust the window. I spent a lot of time trying to get the glass lined up on my wife's '71 Z. Pain in the arse.
I have the door panel off and see there are a couple L shaped felt covered pieces. I can Push them more into the glass which does help a bit. But you know the long steel tube that acts as a guide for the overall window. (Runs most of the vertical length of the door) is there a way to move that puppy? Seems like if that was adjusted that would solve my issue. Any notes, and/or pictures of how and what to adjust would be extremely helpful!
Original fenders yes the door can adjust away from body but I am trying to keep the space between the door edge and front pillar area same as other cars (about 3/8 ).....or is that not important ??? How much space is there usually between the door edge and front pillar area ....????
no weatherstrip just using rubber spacers taped to keep the door flush body spoons .....? what, to bend things ....don't know about that one ou: me and bending metal don't go well and I believe the hood adjust will be another thread on its own :grin: also tough when its a one man show to adjust ...need more eyes and hands ...like a 4 hand massage thingy ....
Yes that is adjustable. There is a bolt on both ends. Very little movement does more adjustment than you would think. Do it slowly and be very, very careful closing the door. I found the proper way to adjust glass by Google Search. Pics help a lot!!
Frank I just put my 72 stage 1 together this spring.the car is code 11 white ! Did you ever see bad gaps on white car! Wow! Any way I used a slide hammer to get it close. Then mudded door/ fender used straight thick paint stick . And primed. You know slide hammer wi/ the (L) bracket on end! You gotta do it on the car to get it right! Worked for me my car is perfect now . And it looked just like your gap . Since my car had power windows. I put 2 hand weights ( you know work out weights) barbells. In the doors to duplicate the weight of that accessory! That is a must !
It's not as hard as you think! Just do it! ! Frank I did it after my car was painted and finished. And had to repaint the fender and door. Boy I am glad I did it. It's perfect know! A lot of those fenders & doors look like yours on those curves.
After you mud & prime the repair. Use 1/8 the inch drill bit and drill holes (1) at each mounting bolts on fender/ core support. Take fender off car. Then drill(3) 1/8 inch holes on each hinge. So when you put car back together line holes up and tighten bolts. You'll be exactly were you were before you took them off!
When car is painted before you put it together . Use roll pins in the drill holes or put in 1/8 inch drill bit in holes hit with die grinder or Dremel . To smooth out! You know little grinder! Then touch up with dab of paint.
Yes, it looks like you need to move that top arch downward. Have someone sit on the fender and add shims at the bottom. Then maybe you can reshape the bottom to fit the rocker better. Maybe the fender should be removed and re-arched to fit better without depending on shims to force it into position. I haven't done this, but maybe someone with more experience can tell you how.
When doing mine I had to add shims to the core support, frame/core, not that that's the fix, but I was suprised how it changed things at the fender/door gap. One side has 5/8, the other 1/8, came out as perfect as it can be.
well got the passenger side looking good ... but on my drivers side I have to move my door back toward the 1/4 panel and need a Little more but that's all she wroteo No: Is it unusual to put washer/plate behind the door hinges ??? the idea of adding weight to the door and the roll pins is good ....thanks
