What is everyone using for replacement exhaust manifold bolts on the 350? I don't see stainless steel ones on TA's site for the 350, only 455. I'll have the engine out of the car this spring, and will be replacing the gaskets, so I'm thinking I ought to have a new set of studs on hand, just in case... I suppose std studs are fine, maybe better than SS, as long as anti-seize is used? Hmm, maybe I should shoot some paint on the manifolds too, while I can. Any recommendations?
manifold bolts i recently replaced my passenger side manifold, and used the same bolts...couldn't find anything that looked like a suitable replacement for bolts...going to put gaskets on my driver's side manifold soon, so i'll keep an eye out, for us both... :eek2: :blast: scott
bolts I put in grade 8 bolts when i replaced my drivers side gasket. along with some antiseize. remarkably the old bolts i was able to get all out but one just using a open end/box end wrench. the last bolt (top of the number 2 cyl) i had to use a pipe wrench on the stud it rounded 3 pairs of vice grips (2 were craftsman:Brow: ) Nate
David, the Eastwood company makes great coatings for manifolds. Just clean the bolts with a wire wheel and use antiseize, but remember to follow rhe torque spec.
My concern is more about the possibility of broken bolts when removing the manifolds. I want to make sure I have spares, or an extra set. The engine is coming out one weekend, going back in the next.
i was able to get all of my bolts out with box end wrenches...they're pretty tough bolts, and i know mine were still factory. wish i'd have kept track of them after i removed the manifolds and put headers on. i'd send over as many as you needed.ou:
question Any recommendations on removing a broken bolt? I have one on the passenger side of my Skylark's 350 and the clicking is starting to become irritating....:af: o No:
busted bolt? is there still a stud left? or is it flush with the block. first try to soak the bolt in penatrating oil once a day for a week (i did this and they came out fine) I used PB penatrating oil (ghetto looking can seems to work really well) I then used a pipe wrench on the bolt to turn it since they tighten on themself. if there is no stud the only way to get it out is with an "easy-out" what these are is basically a screw you put into the bolt that is left handed. if you get a kit they often times come with left handed drill bits. be careful that you don't break the easy out in the bolt (i've done this on a bolt and you don't drill out the easy-out. the highspeed steel dosen't cut out very well.) or you can get a tap drill size for what the bolt size is (i'm not sure off hand) and slowlyincreasing the drill diamater from the center . again if you can find left handed drill bits these help the process. since eventually it will back itself out. if the rest of the thread dosen't come out this way or your not using left handed drill bits. you will then want to chase the existing threads in the block with a tap to remove the old screw (this is why you finished with a drill bit that is the tap drill size) Nate
I had a broken bolt in the manifold of my wifes Fiero once (don't ask what I was doing with one of those!) It was a v6 and the bolt broke off flush on the firewall side, I thought i was going to have to remove the head. A friend who does exhaust work used a torch to blast it out! No damage at all to the threads in the head! Just had to pass a tap through them and they were fine. Apparently it is a common method for removing snapped bolts and studs on exhaust systems. I even tried it on an olds manifold I had and it worked fine for me too. Adam.
manifolds guys: go easy with the antiseize - u may create a problem keeping the manifold bolts torqued properly. the easiest way to remove the exhaust manifold bolts , if the engine is out of the car, is too whack each bolt with a big hammer, several times . be sure that u run a tap into each bolt hole on the head before re-installing the manifold. once in a while if a exhaust bolt breaks of flush, u will have to drill it & use an easy-out to remove the bolt .
Sence nobody has asked yet I'll bite. Why are you pulling yor motor out? To bad it wasn't for the 455
I bought new grade 8 bolts at my local hardware store. I also bought star washers so I could secure them with antisieze. Works like a charm. I've never gotton all the old bolts out without braking them. If there is a stud left, heating with an acetyline torch and vise grips work for me. If there is no stud, drill it and tap it. I've had no luck with easy-outs on exhaust bolts. Those things are really baked in there. If you break the easy-out off in there, you are double screwed!
Eric, Mark Dalquist is pulling the motor in his shop/garage, and we're doing a rear main seal job, and maybe front cover seal. The rear main leak got pretty bad by the end of last summer. You're right, it's too bad I'm not ready for the 455 yet. That's a ways off still. :ball: I'm thinking the exh manifold bolts shouldn't be a problem. The engine has only 7,000 miles on a rebuild in 1999.
David, How goes the spring project? Hope you detailed the engine bay while the engine was out. Maybe some pics?
Nah, we're not scheduled to get into Mark's garage until late May/early June. He's got other projects ahead of mine. My engine bay is pretty clean, so I don't think I'll be doing anything there. The plan is to pull the 350 one weekend, and drop 'er back in the next weekend. If I can get it gone, I want to clean up and repaint the 69 hood hinges I picked up last year, and install them in place of the 68's that don't open nearly far enough. Maybe replace the plastic oil pressure tubing with copper tube, maybe get my tach installed... I really won't have a lot of time to spend over there working on this, so I may not get any of this extra stuff done in the short time we have the car there. o No:
