AH OK. It's still something for him to look at though, as I said it was amazing how much of a difference it was in my car. Heck it was just only about a 1/4 of an inch that the fly moved, but it made a world of a difference. EDIT: PS: I just went back and looked at his post, I miss read it, ya he was talking about the lower butterflys, my bad. I would still check the upper one though, as I said it was an amazing difference after I adjusted mine.
Well, Davids experience is right on... anything that is in the area of the throttle bores is a restriction that reduces flow and thus richens the mixture up.... that is why I take the choke off my carbs and then just start the car on the accellerater pump....and gain a few cfms too.....:Brow: :Brow:
Ya I may end up removing the choke cable and the BF plate and rod. I thought I was going to need it, but I have found that I really don't need it. My carb has no "high idle cam" on it, so, I have to sit there with my foot on the gas petal for alittle bit till it warms up enough to get my nice "Cam Idle" :grin: that I have. Then I can take my foot off of the petal. To get a better air flow without the BF there, is it going to make a big difference ??? Maybe, maybe not ??? I'll most likely leave it on for now, if it gives me any trouble I'll pull it off and run it like it was when I 1st got the car,,,,,, Nothing There to block air flow.
Got all the goodies in the mail. I installed the AED throttle cable bracket. To get full range I had to mount the ball to the inner-most hole on the throttle linkage. I took it for a test drive and I have full throttle now. The performance wasn't earth-shattering, but it is a start. Tomorrow I am going to try the paper clip method to see if the secondaires are in fact opening. Whether they are or aren't I will change out the diaphragm this weekend, then start messing with the springs and accelerator cams. So should I start with the stiffest spring and which cam should I start with? o No:
The thing to do is this.... make changes one at a time and log on paper what the result is.... holley is your best , most reliable source of information... but.... what you are doing is ''fine tuning'' your carb to your engine.... I would start with the accelerator pump cams first and while you are working on that system, look at the squirter nozzle size and stream duration....you want a stream that lasts a longer time to cover a temporary ''lean'' condition when the throttle is snapped open.....remember the secondarys are not open yet....at this point...so they are not a factor....I use a brown cam because it comes in quicker and gives more squirt.... and be sure to log the results of the change, other wise you will get as confused as a baby in a topless bar..... :Brow: :Brow: then on the secondary spring,,, you want to use the lightest one possible without getting lean bog.... so first just change the diaphragm without changing the spring.... and then ck the effect,,, if there is still a bog , go to the next strongest spring, and ck the result and so on untill the problem is resolved and again log the effect.... And check the old diaphragm for holes.... to know if that was the problem....I like to treat the new one with silicone spray to keep it from rotting...... silicone makes rubber stuff live a lot longer.... but dont get it on any thing that you plan to paint....it will be ''fish eye city''.....
Checked the secondaries on the drive to work today and sure 'nuff, theiy ain't opening. The twisite tie was right were I left it. I tried severl WOT applications to no avail. Hopefully that new diaphragm is the answer to that. Slowly but surely I will get it ironed out! :3gears:
Ugh. Got the new diaphragm in, but now it idles like crap, and wont idle more than 1 minute or so on it's own. It is also leaking fuel a little bit from the indicated area. I wiped it up before taking the pic, but it looks like it comes from the linkage area and then it drips down below it. I didn't mess with or change anything else, and it has not done this to me since owning it until now. Could there be a vacuum leak from the vacuum passage where the carb meets the vacuum housing? I made sure the cork gasket was still intact. As for the fuel I have no idea where the heck that would come from.:rant: Edit: Maybe I just flooded it out somehow... I was messing with it and moved that black lever to the left of the red arrow. The engine stalled and fuel came out of the mains and dripped onto the butterflies. That is prolly why the fuel leaks out of the throttle shaft on the passenger side. I checked the bowls while the car was off and the fuel trickled out a little bit, but not much at all.
Ugh x2. I didn't have the diaphragm in there good, so I took it out to re-seat it and promptly threaded and tore the darn thing. That ruins my weekend on tuning. :af: That has got to be the biggest PITA ever devised. There has to be a trick or a better way to change that thing out.
Where at in Ga. are you,,,, if you will bring that sucker to me , I will rebuild it.....:rant: :rant: and all you gotta have is a kit.....
Haha I am waaaay down south in Valdosta. I am gonna work through this thing if it is the end of me. Thanks for the offer though, I gotta learn sometime! I have a quick-change vacuum housing top on the way and a new diaphragm :rant:. Still not quite sure how I flooded the darn thing this morning. I actually manged to flood it twice. I had moved that black spring loaded linkage next to the red arrow, and that seemed to cause the problem. The fuel would pour out of the mains, then onto the closed butterflies, then out the passenger side linkage. Seems to idle ok now like it used to. Not sure what that linkage does exactly other than it is choke related. Remember my carb has all the choke assembly removed, including the butterfly. It's tough being new lol. Also, can someone back up my thinking on this: Would a vacuum leak between the secondary diaphragm housing and carb housing cause a bad idle? Isn't that vacuum port just pulling vacuum from the the veturi effect in the throttle body? That wouldn't effect anything right? I am just trying to wrap my brain around all of this. One more thing for the diaphragm itself. When installed in the housing, is it supposed to have a crinkled feel to it when you press the link in the first 25% of the way? It kind of pops/crinkles, and then you can feel air move. The first 25% of motion doesn't seem to move much air. If you put your finger over the port after pushing it in that far it will not hold position. If you push it all the way in and then put your finger over it, it will hold position until you take your finger off. It doesn't matter now that it is ruined, but that is what it was doing before I tried to re-seat it.
I have learned alot when I call carburator place's:TU: , I'd call Pro-Systems in Michigan. They will talk at you and will tell you what to do to exact thing, not experimenting. When you can buy their carb and only have to twist the adjustments a half to full turn, Their alittle better then anyone I know. Good luck.
Whew, I finally got the vacuum hosing back together. We had a little detour, in the form of our first child being born :laugh: I used the quick change spring cover, and with the brown tipped spring, they don't open. It originally had the no color spring in it, but that was before changing out the diaphragm. I will keep bumping them up to lighter springs until they open. They open by hand, so they shouldn't be binding. On a side note, both old front tires had belts separate. Also looks like one of my bottom ball joints is worn. Oh joy.
Congrats on the family distraction! The tuning trials and tribulations you're going through are par for the course. Inevitably, the same week you get the vacuum secondary carb working well, someone will loan you a double pumper and you'll be wondering why you didn't go that way to begin with. :Brow: Devon
It's a he, his name is Trace, and he is doing great. It boggles my mind how much poop and pee can come out of something that size. We just changed his diaper because it was wet and dirty, then he peed while changing it, then pooped in the fresh one while putting it on, then peed in the next one while putting that one one. :eek2: He is the best thing ever though!
There is a way to check out the secondary opening,,, but you need access to a compressed air hose.... inside the rt. hand front barrel there is a small projection... just open the primary barrels and aim the air hose nozzle into the rt. hand barrel and right at that projection...and give it a good shot of air.... it is the pick up tube that gives the diaphragm the signal to open... and while you are doing that the secondaries should open,,, quickly , I might add.... if they dont open ,, then you need to start checking the system to find out why.....
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Welcome to fatherhood..... I thought we would never get ours out of diapers.... but we did .... ''this too shall pass''......
