I thought I would post this if anybody is interested. I haven't seen much on this and it might be helpful to somebody. I want to simplify the engine harness, and utilize newer technology for ignition systems and charging. This system can easily power your car for all modern options, and easy start ups. There are other ways to set this up, and some kits available. I wanted to eliminate extra wiring and components. I build my cars for function and fun, not for show or restoration, so keep that in mind. This car, like all of my Skylarks, will have the battery in the back, with remote starter solenoid, electric fuel pump, internal regulated alternator, MSD box with HEI distributor, mini high-torque starter, oil pressure mechanical gauge, water temp gauge, and volt meter. The way this is set up, everything in the car works like normal. You turn the key to start, the same as original. I put in a switch for the electric pump because I don't want it to run all the time the key is on. The starter is only used to crank the engine, and has no power going to it at all unless it is cranking. This way, all of the main power wires you have are not next to your exhaust and hot engine. I will post progress as I go on my convertible. I have done this to many of my cars and never have a problem. Hope this is helpful. First of all, I am eliminating this:
I use power distribution blocks that were found on mid 70's GM cars. I put one on the firewall and one in the trunk area. Main power from battery and alternator will be distributed through these. I connect the firewall block to rear block with an 8 gauge red wire. The trunk area will have the distribution block, battery, remote solenoid and the power relay for the fuel pump. The 8 gauge wire from front is connected to distribution block in trunk. An 8 gauge wire is then run to a 12 gauge fusable link and connected to battery side of the starter solenoid. The 0/1 gauge starter cable is also attached to this post and run to the positive post on the battery. For the battery ground, I grind down a spot on the body and drill a hole and place a bolt through the wheel well of the car. A base nut is used to tighten it down, leaving me a ground stud. One cable is run to the negative battery post. Another cable is run outside of the trunk area and bolted to the frame. I grind the frame area to make sure there isn't paint or rust so the cable will get a good connection. To finish the solenoid wiring, I run a 14 gauge wire from the "S" side of the solenoid to the front, and connect to the purple wire coming from the firewall. This 14 gauge wire and the 8 gauge power wire can be taped together for placement to the trunk. The other post on the solenoid will have a 0/1 gauge cable running to the starter. It will be the only wire going to the starter.
At the firewall side, I cut the two main power up red wires to run to the distribution block. I connect these to fusable links and to the the block.
So, after I am done, the engine harness from the firewall only has a few wires coming out. One for the brake distribution block. I removed the oil pressure switch, water temp switch, coil wires. Since this car has A/C, I took the A/C power from the A/C harness straight to the distribution block.
