What are some of the pros and cons or running either fan setup? I want to run a mechanical fan but am getting pulled towards an electric one.
Mechanical fans pretty much require a shroud, and if you don't have one, as I don't, then the electric is a good option since they don't make a 67 repop.
Just had this debate myself.. Was running a lincoln mark VII since I rebuilt the motor last year and the fan did excellent in mild weather and long cruising. However, hot days and traffic would make my temp gauge climb even with an aluminum radiator and 180* thermostat. I switched back to the mechanical fan,and feel much more comfortable on the road knowing it works. (been around for a good bit right?) Although!! I only had it wired in low speed as I didn't have a high output alternator and no A/C. I do feel that a properly equipped electrical fan setup would benefit a motor, but I would have to side with a mechanical fan for peace of mind even if I had the electrical output.
x2. I ended up going back to a mechanical mainly because of the high current draw with the electric fan when the a/c and everything else was on, but in all honesty the mechanical cools better in town than the electric did.
A big heavy duty clutch fan with a shroud will always out cool an electric unit, unless the electric unit pulls a ridiculous amount of amps. But an electric fan doesn't need a shroud, and will free up some horsepower. I'm running a 2200cfm unit from Jegs. It pulls roughly 18-19amps, and it gets the job done, but I wish it pulled a little more. I'd say get a good electric unit, like something from Flexalite.
ive put electrics on everything ive had but my diesel. im gonna switch it some time. it does draw some amps but its nothing a alt cant handle. if you have it a proper relay controller you never notice any difference cept its quiter and a little more powerful. with a nailhead you prob need a dual fan set up however. 6.0 truck fans would make a good option.
It's all your preference. Both will do the job when set up right. I prefer a fan with a clutch and a good shroud. Never had issues with the setup in 110+*F stop and go traffic in Vegas or CA. Fan clutches are cheaper to replace than electrics when they do go out.
Chuck-- you have revised somehing I learned when I took Thermodynamics.ou: I suspect you may not realize that the energy supplied through the engine driven belt increases with the electical load on the alternator.:Smarty: This additional energy comes the engine and decreases that which is otherwise available to drive the rear wheels of the auto.
I tried electric on the Riv and it was a flop. the duel fan would draw so much power the Alt(140 A) wouldnt keep up with it. the fans would slow, car got hot then wouldnt start due to a dead batt. went back to mechanical and a heavy clutch and not had another problem. On the track car I run electric and it does fine for the limited time I really use it.
idk why you guys are have so many issues with your fans ive had on the gray truck for years the alt doesnt even sweat it. the fans should only pull 40-50 amps at most and after inital start up should go to 20 amps with the proper controller. if your just wiring them with a toggle switch your not hooking them up right. proper temp controller is what you want.
I have made this comment several times before. Doc has mentioned the "railroad philosophy." Put in a huge radiator, and cooling will not be a problem. My Nailhead - powered Chevy pickup has the huge Diesel radiator, the Diesel shroud and a mechanical clutch fan that Tom Telesco tells me is too small. My issue is getting the thing to run warm enough. I would drive it across Death Valley in high summer towing a 5,000 lb trailer and not give a thought to cooling. And yes. it is air-conditioned. I would be using the AC in the situation that I described.
onlynew electric fans i'd consider would be spal anything else i say wouldnt be worth it i know alot of people had good luck with used lincoln dualfans or taurus single 2 speed fans when wiered forboth speeds those in conjuntion with one of our members hi output alternators and an aluminum rad by alumintech or griffin/be cool and you should be golden
This is correct. The primary advantage of an electric fan is being able to reduce the rotating weight of a fan and clutch assembly, plus the electric fan is only run for short intervals or time, making the overall additional power required from the alternator less than that of what's required to use a mechanical fan.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0707_high_performance_cooling_system/viewall.html The real bad ones are the fixed fans followed by the flex fans. Clutch fans aren't terribly bad at HP absorbtion. And we're talking 8-19HP at 6,300rpm, that's a TON of air to move at that speed (lots more than an electric will move), rolling down the highway or at idle their using substantially less (and moving less air). Both will work though, I prefer the simplicity and availability of fairly cheap replacement parts on the clutch fan though. I did have a clutch one go out on me (lock up) after 3 years and probably 30,000 miles. I was travelling through Phoenix at the time, and rolled into an Autozone, they had one in stock, lifetime warranty, changed it out in the parking lot in ten minutes. Initial cash lay out years ago ~$40. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1972-Buick-Centurion/Fan-Clutch/_/N-ipirdZ9pd92
I've always wondered about these write-ups that rely on an engine dynomometer to test the losses from an engine-driven or electric cooling fan. At what speed and at what point along the 1/4 mile track is the air moving fast enough through the radiator (and acting on the fan) to substantially reduce or even cancel out the losses? The dyno only does a good job of measuring the losses on an engine that's bolted to the floor. God forbid, would the 115 mph air through my radiator turn my electric fans fast enough to start charging my battery as I cross the finish line? :grin: Devon
