Hey guys i am in the process of restoring my 67 GS340 I have a question the only thing that I have dne is replace the alternetor because the old one was arching on something on the inside so it would drain the the battery so I replaced it. After that all of the light pulse when the car is running. The pulsing gets faster as the rpms rise. Do you guys have any Ideas. I bought the alternator like a year ago do you guys think that the alterntor is bad or is it something else. I think the car is going to go to the paint shop this weekend so I need to figure out this problem just wanted to see what you guys think thanks very much Adam
Use a digital voltmeter set to the AC scale. Connect the leads to the battery with the car running, if you read more than .200 volts, give or take, the diode trio in the alternator has failed. If that checks out ok, your problem is most likely the voltage regulator mounted on the fender or firewall. A poor connection to ground could also cause some of the symptoms you describe, verify a good connection at the block and the ground strap from the engine to the body. Let us know how you make out:TU:
re electrical problem Wow Artie thanks I will do that, electrical work isn't my thing(i usually end up just socking myself),but my buddy is a certified ecletrician so he can help me with what you suggested. I will definetly let you know how it work out thank you very much for the info thanks Adam
Adam, Submitting this as I had the same experience with my '72 Skylark this time last year. Lights would pulsate and the pulsation frequency would increase with rpms. My problem seemed to be the external voltage regulator. Decided to convert to the internal regulated alternator at that same time which fixed the problem. Now please be aware that I am not a ASE certified anything but just a decent shade tree mechanic. That was my experience and I hope this keeps you aimed in the right direction. Dean
Check the grounds......all of them......voltage regulator to firewall, neg battery cable to body and frame, engine to body, make up wires to accomplish this if necessary. :bglasses:
the external regulated alternater (10dn)has no diode trio,so kill that idea.ground problem is most likely,take a set of jumper cables and start grounding the block to the frame,the batt to the block etc.also get a voltmeter and see if your voltage is the same at the back of the alt as at the batt. you can only have a 1/2 volt diff , if more cables could be causing resistance.another possability,bouncing brushes.a lot of the mass produced units the builders only sand the slip-rings instead of turning them on a lathe to true them.this makes for an out of round surface for the bruses to ride on,and they literally bounce.i would try the grounds first...most common problem :Smarty: jamie
Hey guys thanks for the info There is alot of stuff unhooked so that may be the problem mostly the head lights and harnesses but I will check everything thanks Adam
