Electrical problems?

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by 68Rivi_In_Cali, Mar 16, 2010.

  1. 68Rivi_In_Cali

    68Rivi_In_Cali Well-Known Member

    At first i thought it was a vac leak because the car would die when i idle in Gear and try to put the windows up, but now it dies at stop lights. I've heard it might be my alternator.

    Well I do remember I could not find the actual power window relay 1 year ago and my friend just made a jumper wire to replace it. I belive this might be the problem. What do you guys think?

    If so, then would this one from year one interchange with a power window relay from a 68 Buick Rivi?

    I want to get the car running reliable but having it die at stoplights is not too fun

    here's a link to the relay

    http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/...&hid=212AA55705&cat=2&trk=12&searchid=3533606

    UPDATE: They relay that was not replaced was attached to the firewall under the front speaker, from what i searched, the power window relay is on the brace next to the speaker correct? well that relay s there, then which relay did i jump? becasue without that jump, the windows don't work.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2010
  2. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    That's a typical location for the horn relay/ignition buzzer, at least in the Skylark/GS cars.
    Best bet is to get a Chassis Service Manual & make sure your system is safe & working correctly. Check all your fuses/relays.. Make sure none have been replaced with higher amperage units. Many gremlins are sourced as bad ground issues, loose & corroded connections.
    I'm a pessimist when I think of the 40 year old wiring in my '71.
     
  3. 68Rivi_In_Cali

    68Rivi_In_Cali Well-Known Member

    I'll double check my 68 manual, Now I could not help see that u mentioned, higher amperage fuses might be the culprit, Recently I changes a fuse that kept blowing out, It was the brake light and dash lights one, Now I could not remember which type of fuses to get, so I bought a variety pack and did trial and error, I believe the 30 amp one works, but I thought it was only like 25.

    Well I couldn't find info in the manual specifying the amps for fuses, and the fuse box is pretty worn so I don't have a solid reference for the fuse amps.

    Well it might be the horn relay, because I don't hear a buzzing when I have the key in the ignition
     
  4. Steve Craig

    Steve Craig Gold Level Contributor

    Didn't mean the higher amp fuses might be the culprit in this case. When you are looking for the window issue, look at the fuses installed at the panel. 40 years of "others" replacing fuses & making changes in the wiring can at times be a real issue. Do not exceed the factory recommended sizes.
    If you have a 25A fuse blowing, don't rely on the 30A to repair the issue.
    Fuse blowing is telling you something is wrong. Cheapest insurance you can buy.
    Find the problem & have it repaired.
     

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