wasnt sure where to post this to get a good response??? little back story first. last season after alot.......almost 2 year......of fumbling over a short block refresh that went major bad in short order and taking almost 4k to fully fix after an 1500ish refresh.......I finally got my car on the track in sept. this time we have a oil heater in the pan and temp gauge. I started with a lower wattage heater.....I think like 200-250 watt. it took hrs to even raise the temp 50*. so we put s 500 watt in, problem solved. now I can get my temp up over 180 b4 leaving the pits. in Oct I had to run it quit a bit and noticed I had to start the car every hr or so to balance out the temps........if not it would start reading 200ish plus, but once started the temps would quickly fall below 140. I'm wanting to be 160ish b4 making a hit but with huge postons pan and cold weather I struggled. I noticed when I pulled the lower half the pan the oil had a little burnt smell and some burnt looking black stuff in the bottom of pan. my thought is I would like to see about finding a low volume low pressure pump, i want to tee into my suction line going from my pan to scavenger inlet. from here just feed the pump and run it right back to the motor either through the valve cover or China wall. I'm attempting to just circulate the oil when running the heater to get an even temp and move the oil around to not burn it by oil just hanging out not moving on my heater. the heater I have is encapsulated so the oil doesn't actually touch heater. even looking to put an automatic on off timer of the heater to basiclly turn it on and off ever so often and not just have it on for a few hrs at time in attempt to keep the temp ready to go but not overly hot.
The burned oil was cooked into COKE. thats a problem with hot turbo chargers not being allowed to cool down. The oil COKEs up the bearings and the return line gets plugged. I think the newer cars (T'd units) probably have a timer like the electric fans to monitor the cool down period. The old dipstick heaters did the same thing (immersion heater). At least hot air (oil vapor?) rises and heats the rest of the block too. As long as youre plumbed externally, ever consider a motorcycle oil thermostat bypass unit? ws https://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-1981-...=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Teeing off the suction side of the real oil pump is risky. Too much of a chance of pulling air through it or a leak will cost you the engine quick under WOT. If your pan is alluminum I'd weld a bung into the sump and pull oil from there. It would be easy after that.
I have an inline coolant heater in lower hose that works well with the Meziere water pump to warm the block. I would think it would help warm the oil by warming the block by heating the water. Not going to get the oil temps you are looking for though.....
I have a coolant hose heater too. going to put a freeze plug heater in instead..... good point on sucking air, I do have and al pan, but the headers and internal shape of the lower half only leaves so much room. the pan is thick enough I can actually drill and tap it. but good point I didnt think about.
