Hi, i'd like to change my dynaflow for a TH700R4, if i found an adapter to fit it on the engine, i wonder how it will go on the torque tube, (i don't plan to change the rear end). Franck. ps: My Dynafow run OK when i cruise, kick down OK, but i have to start the car on Low, it's boring in town, dificult use also on mounty roads. Tell me if i'm wrong, i'm suposed to feel two gears. I'm always on second.
I don't know the mechanics of attaching another Trans to your Torque tube. As far as 'shifting', this is how I understand it ; on Dynaflow there are "D" and "L". However, there is only ONE forward gear ratio. With the selector in "D" the variable pitch stator vanes in the torque converter are at smaller angle. With the selector in "L" the stator blades are locked in at a hard angle to get more 'bite' in the fluid. The 'shift' you feel on kick down is the variable pitch stator blades in the torque converter changing pitch to get provide more torque. Mine is 1955 Roadmaster (I think 56 Dynaflows are similiar if not the same) About 8 years ago i had my Dyanflow rebuilt and it does real good on the steep grades here in Birmingham, (the car stays at my Dad's house on top of Red Mountain). Driving a Dyanflow is like no other trans I ever drove, I've had TurboHydramatic, powerglide, AMC, Chrysler, Ford, Nissan, Isuzu. I like the Dynaflow best, because it's smooth.
Thanks, so before i have my trans rebuilt does anyone knows what's wrong with it, perhaps there something to do without removing it. I'm gonna check the high accumlator, i did read and read all litterature i found (thanks Budd's 1956 Buick Site ) and i learnt it can be a leak in this high accumulator due to a deficient gasket. English is not natural for me so it's sometimes a little difficult for me to handerstand, anyway that's an interesting way of training. About having it rebuilt there is less people here in France than in USA able to do it properly. And i'd like to find of my own ! Thanks again, Franck.
I remember reading or being told that the high accumulator can be a problem. It wasn't with mine, however. There didn't seem to be a real problem with my Dynaflow. But on the safe side I had it rebuilt, after sitting in garage and not driven for 22 years. They did find that several of the variable pitch blades had broken off. But I DROVE it to the Transmission Shop with the broken stator blades! (Davis Transmission 2nd Ave So Birmingham Alabama gets my highest recomendation) Your English is very good. Je non parlay Francais. bon chance, Franck
Hey Aussie V8, Nice 54. Roadmaster? Is the color (colour) Colonial Blue over Dover White? Mine Is 55 Roadmaster Dover over Colonial Blue. I looked at your profile and see you are a firefighter. My Grandfather and Great-Grandfather were Fire Chiefs here in Birmingham, Alabama. In 1940 the city bought a 1940 Buick Century coupe as the Chief's car and issued it to my Great-Grandfather.
I changed my dynaflow out and put a 700r4 in my 56 Wagon using an adapter from Bendtsen's (http://www.transmissionadapters.com/). It works very well. You do have to convert to an open drive rear end. I used a Ford 8" rear in mine. Its not a cheap change over. The adapter is $675.00. It will be around $2000.00 with other parts and labor. I'm still glad I went this way even though it was a little more pricey then I would have liked. Good Luck.
G'day bhambullbog. Yep, my 1954 is a Roadmaster 76R. It's colour is Casino Beige and Black. Don't know whether the black is correct but the beige is. I bought the car out of Georgia three years ago and had her shipped here. It spent most of it's life in Texas so very little or no rust. It did go through an older restoration some years ago and I've given her a cosmetic makeover since being here. And yes, firefighter ( station officer ) here on the west coast. Been doing it for 30 years now. Still enjoy it but gets harder the older you get. Ken.
Aussie, your paint code on the firewall plaque should be; A C A (Carlsbad Black, Casino Beige, Carlsbad Black):Smarty:
Franck: Dynaflows do not automatically shift, as does a turbo hydramatic. There is however a concurrent shifting going on in the torque converter when in D. The torque converter has two turbines, the first is geared through a planetary gearset to provide a quasi-reduction for faster starts, the second is coupled to the tailshaft via a direct drive clutch. What happens when starting out is that the first turbine gets most of the driven torque from the converter pump, thereby driving the car at a pseudo low gear. After awhile of building up speed, the second turbine starts to get driven and thereby takes over transmitting power. At this time the first turbine simply free-wheels with no further reduction being transmitted. Note: The variable pitch converter mechanism is separate from the information listed above. So putting it simply, the D range does indeed have a low gear and a drive gear, but no perceived shifts. L range is a manual reduction, and is independent of the converter reduction process.
