First a big Thanks to BobC455 for the link to hrPartsand stuff! I ordered the boxed upper and lower control arms for my '70 Skylark from his post and based on his experience. My question is: Are the driveshaft lengths the same for a 1970 Skylark Conv with 350/350 and 8.2" rearend compared to a 1972 Skylark with a 350/350, but Corporate 8.5" rearend?? My older stlye 8.2" spun a bearing just as I was putting her away for the winter. Before I can drive her again, I'm going to replace the old rearend with a corporate 8.5" 10 bolt with 3.23 Richmond geared posi unit out of a 1972 Skylark. I know I could rebuild the old one, but I would like a posi unit and something that will be easier to get parts for and later will install a disk brake conversion kit. I'd do that conversion now, but decided to go with the upper and lower control arms first... Momma won't let me spend that much money right now... Anyone know if there's a difference with the drive shaft/rearend conversion other than the above question? Thanks in advance,
8.2 to 8.5 swap Hi, I would imagine that the two differentials are very similar in size so the driveshaft length should be the same or close. I would swap in the new rear axle assembly and then install the drive shaft. You will have to do this to determine if the shaft will fit anyway and all good driveline shops will have you make a measurement from the transmission output shaft to the rear axle pinion flange to properly shorten or lengthen your original driveshaft. The car should be supported by jack stands UNDER the axle for the next part of the swap! Check to make sure that the shaft will move forward enough to install rear u joint into the pinion flange. If not, the shaft is too long and will have to be shortened. I always make sure that I have at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches of spline engagment on the transmission output shaft, more is better up until the point where the shaft bottoms out in the trans, not a good situation. This is all pretty straightforward stuff, but always becarefull working under a car with heavy metal objects that weigh more than you do! LOL!! Good Luck, Tim :Comp:
Hi Tim and Thanks! After doing a whole bunch of research I decided to go with the "Big" 10 bolt for several reasons, but most of all for price and parts availability. 12 bolts are going for really sky high prices and since my Skylark is not a 1/4 mile monster machine, nor does it have tons of horsepower, the big 10 seemed the best choice. What I've seen on other web sites concerning this swap with Chevelles, Novas, 4x4's or Oldsmobiles, is that the yoke on the big 10 has a different layout and the housing itself might lead to a driveshaft reduction of about 1 1/2 inches. The yoke for the u-joint is a little different on how it bolts up, but should still fit my existing driveshaft. Since the the big 10 is coming out of a '72 Skylark, I'm hoping it will bolt in with no mods required. I've completed all of my buying and Q&A's on-line. I was hoping someone here has completed this swap and could give me the "real" low down and things to look out for. Your advice is great and will be the very least I do. I was hoping the job could get completed in one night. I have access to a garage with a lifting hoist, air tools and heat as well. As you know it's winter time and working on my back in 20degF weather is no fun!! So if the conversion can't get completed in one night, I'm screwed! The other real question here in Western Michigan is: Is there is a reputable driveshaft/driveline shop/builder locally?? Thanks for the reply and your help,
