Although I have googled roller cam vs flat, roller hdy. vs solid flat, hyd. roller vs solid roller ect. ever since the roller cam dyno thread. I read here on v8 buick and all the other brand engine threads, there is a lot out there. Most say it is worth more when copare hdy. flat vs hyd. roller. Seems it might be worth some on solid flat vs hyd. roller. I seen one thread where Joe sherman said He gaIned 60 hp. So I read it and he said the solid roller was worth 60 or 70 hp... at 8000 rpm. ou: Then went on to say "hyd. lifter cams are for sissys". That was one reason I started the thread on bbb section "solid flat vs mild hyd. roller " just wanting to see what anyone has to say about it. I still think The intake manifolds might have a little to do with the out come of the two engines we have been talking about. Big qustion I had was would the roller help the air staved head like a nailhead. jim W. seems to think so. It would be fun to do a mild hyd. roller cam vs a hot solid flat dyno session with a built nailhead. Dont think it would ever happen though. Bob
Well,, like I said a few posts back,,, a roller 091 cam with toms roller rockers, to me would be about the best street set up:Brow: ....how durable, I dont know,,,:Smarty: Toms rockers would hold up.... just dont know how a roller would hold up.... but,,,, anytime you can eliminate heat/friction in a engine that is a good thing....except for heat in the intake:laugh::laugh: reading the posts,, you guys are all right on, to one degree or another... but you have to compare apples to apples .... say,,,, a 091 hyd cam to a 091 roller.... nothing else changed.... then you get pure results... that is what I did when I did the original doc dual plane,,, changed absolutely nothing else then I knew just how much it helped....:Brow: just like this blasted brow,,, I could not get my point across with out it....:Brow::Brow::Brow::laugh: in the end there is no real way to check it out with out actually doing it, and then evaluate the results....and when you dont get what you expected , keep pecking at it.... untill you either succeed or decide that approach aint no good....
Andy, The cam in my car right now came with the short block I bought from Joe"gsgtx". It is a comp fast ramp hyd. flat. It is a 218-230 at .50...I think 505-495 lift..110 lsa on 108 center. I have 373 rear gears and 2004r first with 9.5 converter. All I can say it gets up and goes. I am running Toms rockers with the cam. Back to the op, testing that I have done on nailheads if your just cleaning and smothing you will gain a little cfm. The velocity stays high and The heads still start getting turbulent at around .480. Like I said you do get a little more cfm at over .500 lift but you are not getting much. The 091 cam takes advantage of the flow the stock or slightly mod. heads will give you. I agree with Andy, If you have done all the work to make power Why leave any on the table Just wanted to add,we were talking about snakes riv. I think like walt says the cam will make good low end for a heavy riv to cruise around in. I am sure hes not racing the riv...
First, Snakes Riv.... Do you guys agree a tighter LSA would be better for him than the 114 Isky for low-end power? And might as well add some exhaust duration. Should help top end power without hurting low end. Bob, those fast ramp lobes combined with roller rockers will make for some fast open/close rates! Might even be comparable to a roller cam with stock rockers. (??) Valve spring choice is very important here, to keep the components in contact and to prevent the valves from bouncing on the seats.
Walt, in my case I have been running ls1 beehives for about 5 years. About 110 seat and 295 open. Seem to be working pretty good. There might be some better options out there, but I am happy with themo No:
I am thinking 091 specs for the intake side,,, and a little more duration for the exhaust side..... :Brow:
I'd agree with both of those statements Walt. The dyno sims indicate the Nail definitely likes a split profile cam, with extra exhaust duration and lift. The same goes for a tighter LSA, up to a certain point. For a naturally aspirated street engine, something between 108* and 112* seems optimal. Obviously something along the lines of 110* or 112* is going to be more street friendly and produce more vacuum. And in terms of ramp rate, you can play around with the Cam Manager in the Dyno 2003 sim and compare their calculated "lifter acceleration rates" for different cams. Just plug in the advertised duration, @ 0.050" duration, and valve lift. It should give a pretty good idea of just how aggressive a given lobe is, as least comparatively against another cam.
Okay, how about these cam specs, isky 270 dur in. 278 ex. valve lift .475 int. and .488 ex. on 114 lobe space. that look better to you guys:TU:
