Distributor gear oiler

Can someone explain in detail how this is done and what fittings and size line is used. Is there some sort of orifice involved or just common fittings? Thanks, Tom

 

Yes!

Tom

I assume you are talking about the cam gears in the 455 CI engine. If so, buy the kit for 12.00 bucks from Postons over priced but you have it all with out missing anything.

It is 1\8" tubing (brass oil pressure gage tubing) about 3 inches long, a 1\8th pipe thread male end fitting with furrel fitting (has the round brass ring to go over pipe) on the other end.

You drill and tap the main oil line in the aluminum timing gear cover just about the oil pump gear case. This is close to the cam gear, then aim the tube at the gears. The kit has the end of the tube crimped down to about 1\16th to minimize loss of oil pressure and avoid wasting oil that is needed for the rod and mains.

This is description is from memory about 3 or 4 years ago. This will give you a bit of insight to the procedure if if not perfect.

Not hard exercise if you the basic skills of a pipe fitter.

Weekender :TU:

 

I too am interested in this gear oiler. Is this a "MUST" when building a strong street/strip 455? I don't see this offered by TA, but I may have missed it.
Any con's on doing this? Just don't like the idea of drilling holes in my brand new TA timing cover if it's not really necessary.

 

TA cover?

I'd call them before I tried doing anything. Their cover has many improvements designed in. This oiler is for the stock cover. :bglasses:

 

Brian Earick told me NOT to do that mod. Good enough for me.

 

Thanks for the replies Larry, Dan and Doug :TU: I have the good TA cover already. Hey Larry, that instruction sheet you posted for the oiler looks like my 3 year old drew the pics :grin: Is that from Poston's? :eek2:

 

Oiler

Larry,thanks for the pics,that is perfect.Thanks to Weekender also for the description. I can't see paying Poston $14.88 plus shipping for $1.50 worth of parts I can get down the street. I'll use an inverted flare fitting since it supports the line better. They say it doubles the life of a bronze gear, that's why I asked. You know for that taboo hv/hp pump! Thanks Tom

 

Weekender :TU:[/QUOTE]This is close to the cam gear, then aim the tube at the gears. The kit has the end of the tube crimped down to about 1\16th to minimize loss of oil pressure and avoid wasting oil that is needed for the rod and mains.



That crimp serves a purpos? Damn, when i installed mine i opened it up i though it was crimped when they cut it so i opened it. should i close it back?

 

This is close to the cam gear, then aim the tube at the gears. The kit has the end of the tube crimped down to about 1\16th to minimize loss of oil pressure and avoid wasting oil that is needed for the rod and mains.



That crimp serves a purpos? Damn, when i installed mine i opened it up i though it was crimped when they cut it so i opened it. should i close it back?[/QUOTE]

Silverbird

If you have have good oil pressure I don't think it is critical to tear it down and fix it. These gears don't need full flow from the 1\8" tube so the next time your inside the beast crimp it down and send the oil on it's way to the heart where it needs it.

Weekender

 

oiler

Hey guys if your not running a roller cam then there is no reason to run a bronze gear or the gear oiler. the only reason i run the oiler is there is no oil feed hole in the roller cam, so it would eat up the cam gear and the dist. gear. Ive run solid cams with the stock steel gear and they always come out looking really good. (TORQUENSOVER)

 

After having my last 2 engines with steel gears have wear problems with the dist. gear I've installed the oiler on one of them for the first time.

Stock oil pump, 65 PSI oil pressure. Somebody tell me why I'm having wear problems if it's not for lack of oil on either startup or low RPM operation.