O.K., how do I shut the Anti-stop brakes off on my 99 Suburban. Pulling the fuse kill's my heater blower motor and the radio, so that's out.( This is the big 60A fuse under the hood, had to put it back in to get my radio and heater to work) Please, I have my reason for doing this, I don't want to answer a bunch of "why would you do that" questions. The answer to that question is, this thing is the most no stoppinist turd I've ever driven. You can stand on the pedal with both feet, and 250 feet past where you needed to stop, it finally comes to rest. How do I shut these widow-makers OFF?:af:
Theres probably something else wrong with your brakes not the ABS but to answer your question you can disable them by simply unpluging the harness from the abs unit under the hood.
Pull the fuse. it is a big one under the hood. neither of mine have the fuse in it. I like abs when it works, but on these vehicles it is WAY over active.
Another thought... they get really bad if the tires need rotated... yes...it is that damn sensitive. you would think it would learn the tire rotation like low tire sensing on the newer Buicks. on those once you correct the problem, you have to clear it and then it relearns the tire diameter.
I had a '99 Tahoe and THAT THING stopped about like yours.The ABS wouldn't let it stop in a short distance,especially on a wet road-when the ABS is supposed to WORK! I came close to rearending a few vehicles on wet roads. The ABS unit is on the left(driverside) apron.Seems like it is under something,like the engine contoller(computer),or a plastic storage box.Just follow the brakelines and you will see it. I disabled mine by unplugging the damn thing.But plugged it back up right before I traded on a newer Chevy pickup with 4 wheel disc. A night and day difference! The '01 and up burbs and Tahoes have the MUCH better braking system.Another problem that I had with that '99 Tahoe,was the brake pedal was always soft/spongy,no matter what I did.Like replacing the brake pads with the ceramic style,replacing the power brake booster,power bleeding,etc. I got rid of it.
Yes the ABS, or a.k.a. Anti-Stop brakes. Quite a few people in that thread confirmed what I'm talking about, and there were a couple bunny-hugger's that think it's great that you can't stop when your standing on the pedalou: Brake's and Brake pedal are for stopping, steering wheel is for steering:Smarty: Thanks for the tips guy's, I'll look for either the small fuse in the side of the dash, and if that is a no-go, I'll pull the wiring harness plug on the side of the Anit-Stop unit.
My wife has a 2000 Yukon, and it stops twice as good as my Suburban, but my Dad has a 1990 GMC that stops 10 times better than both of these turds. My wife said she has had a few close calls as well because the damn thing wouldn't stop.
Not there. This is a BIG fuse in the fuse box on the drivers side. i can't remember what value exactly... i think it was red and was like 40 amps. the underside of the fuse box top will show you anyway. My 94 shortbed has rear abs. it works fine. no problem there. somebody already pulled it on the 95. I guess they were thinking the same thing. It's not my thing to try to re engineer saftey features of a vehicle. I know they are better at what they do than i am at what they do. When everything works properly and as intended... and it is still a safety hazard... chuck it.
one more thing... while i'm on the box... Stock front rotors are junk. they are composites and can not handle a good metallic pad. they will warp. You have to use an oem type pad to make those rotors work properly. If you try to turn them they will sometime build a really bad glaze after the first couple of stops, if they cut though the "outer layer". The inner layer is porous and causes this sometimes, even if they are above discard. Midas used to have a bulletin out on this. When you do brakes next,the parts store will offer two rotors. the one with the stamped steel hub and is the composite. Get the one that has the turned or billet look at the hub. it is thicker there as well. They are standard old school steel and work great. They are something like 15 bills each. Get a good metallic pad and you will think you are driving a different truck.
a problem you don't hear about is ABS, even when working properly, will INCREASE your stopping distance when traveling off road. You say you don't do any off roading? This comes into play if you were to make an evasive maneuver and leave the paved portion of the road for the median or shoulder. I learned about this the hard way and did some searching online and found out I wasn't the only one to discover this problem. On the same site, I also learned how to disable the ABS.
We have a 2001 GMC, the anti-lock motor is located under the drivers door, and there is a only one hot wire going to it, once the wire is disconected the ABS light will come on and the ABS feature is done......i only know this because the wire corroded and the ABS quit working at 55,000 miles..and GMC would not fix the problem. We have 95,000 happy non-abs miles on her and i dont miss them either.
97-99 had the Kelsey Hayes ABS distribution block.... there are several hundred turns and passages in the block, GM and KH went to legal/court war's over this crap... the later Bosch ABS block is far superior in your junkyard searches... I got rid of a 97 Tahoe due to this, and my brother had his 97 Tahoe lemon lawed, after the service manager drove over the mechanics tool boxes in their shop... there is a single wire on the rear end pumpkin for the ABS reluctor pickup, but I don't remember if disconnecting this wire also kills the speedo, worth a try...
Everyone thinks I'm nuts but I want to turn off ABS in my 97 Ford Conversion Van for the same reason. These things are junk, the truck won't stop!!!!!!!!! How do I turn off the ABS in my 97 Ford Econoline 150? Mikey
I must be like a lot of you, I have a lot of miles under my belt and I think ABS brakes were designed for people that don't know how to brake properly. All three of our vehicles take much longer to stop on wet pavement if it's at all slippery and they are USELESS on ice and slush! Of the three, my LeSabre is the best but I HATE not being able to feather my brakes on slippery roads. I may just try unhooking them and see how they work.
Had the same problem on our '99. The front hub sensors get corroded from the salt and don't "read" properly anymore. Essentially, you end up with no front braking action, even on dry pavement. Our dealer had good luck getting me one more winter by cleaning them, since it is an expensive part for each side. Like everyone else said, there is a separate fuse that turns off the ABS only. To get good brakes on ours, I went with ceramic pads. Raybestoes brand rotors worked best and last more than a year. New hoses, new drums in back and new rear shoes too. Pedal was still typical mush like all GM's since late 70's/early 80's. My '70 with 30 year old hoses and original discs had better feel and a more solid pedal.
If you can't find the power wire or the fuse, just unplug one of the wheel speed sensors. Anything that turns on the yellow ABS lights disables the ABS system and you have conventional brakes.
