I'm totally screwed........ I've been chasing this vibration in my 63 Special for a couple of months since I got it. Now as it's gotten worse I am definately sure it's in my differential. I had my wife push the car back n forth while I went under. I put my hand on the flange and can feel the clicking coming from in the diff as the shaft moves. I hope it's one of the pinion bearings but that's just wishful thinking. I'm sure it's probably dry in there too,as I've only had the car for about 2 months. I got the designation off the cover. The book says it's a 3.08 ratio. This car has a two piece shaft with a center joint. I need some helpful info and ideas how I should deal with this nightmare. Anyone knowing anything about this, please help. I need some info on where to potentialy get parts etc. And what might be more or less common in this situation. Nick
got my hand on the u-joint right at the flange and can feel the noise inside. I am going to jack up the back and spin wheels to test further but, I'm pretty sure I'm doomed.
Let's not panic until we have to. Put it on jack stands and disconnect the driveshaft (but spray a little paint on the joint at the flange so the 2 pieces go back together the same way they came out). Then spin it and see. NAPA has all my rear bearings in stock or in the next day. They're worth a shot.
If that had cv joints, it could be that causing the noise. A ujoint could also be the problem as Adam said. If so, you would be better off taking it to a driveshaft shop, those cv's are a real PITA to do.:bglasses:
Thanks guys. Ok, I'm pretty sure the Diff is dry as a bone so, I'm gonna fill er up, although I know that wont fix it, it may help keep what's left of it intact for the moment. It is a tricky set up whith the 2 piece shaft. The joints could be bad aswell but not visibly. It's also a pain because the noise changes during differing speeds, mutates into a different noise. I'm guessing I have more than just one issue here but, one at a time. At first I thought it may be the rear wheel bearings but with the car up yesterday I couldnt see any movement when I flexed the wheels. When I spin them back n forth I get a low "tink tink tink" in the back aswell as a higher "click click" from the tranny area. Luckily the center joints are quiet-ish. I'm also going to inspect the motor mounts just in case.
If the tick-tick is coming from the tranny it may be normal....I think mine has done that since day 1.:bglasses:
Opened her up to take a look. I may have pinion bearing issues aswell but, take a look at this. The inside pinions are very movable. When I put a little down pressure on them and rotate it, it seems better. I think these are supposed to be shimed in for as little movement as possible but, I'm not sure. The main ring gear and drive pinion seem to be ok, no teeth missing and don't look worn.
I'd take a really hard look at the u-joints, especially if it has the double-carden type driveshaft, the one with the two u-joints at one end. Mine went bad once and at first I'd have sworn my FRONT wheel bearings were making the gawd-awful noise...The u-joints felt tight, but ultimately were bad. I found out about them after spending lots of time and some $$$ looking at the rear end, much like you're doing. I'd look at those joints first, especially if you've got a vibration. I'd expect a fair amount of wear/slack inside a '63 diff, and you'd feel it as "clicking" in the diff housing as you rolled it back and forth, as the driveshaft loads everything one way and then the other. Unless those gears are really moving around (I dunno, more than 1/8 inch?), I'd look elsewhere. U-joints will wear out a LOT sooner than the diff, and are way cheaper to fix!!! Normally (whatever that is) rear end noise will be gear whine, or clicking as a bad bearing rolls around. I think one click per two wheel revs means a wheel bearing, one per driveshaft rev means pinion bearings. Here's hoping it's not your diff!
Anyone have an extra 455 lying around to loan me? Maybe then I could just snap whatever the weak link is....lol Those pinions do move more than an 1/8th but, u-joints are cheap and easy to atleast elminate from the equation so I'll go ahead and do them. rrrrrrr.....all 4.
