I'm wondering if anyone knows what it usually takes to cut into the metal rear tray of a '72 GS to fit some 6x9's? I had bought some a while ago thinking they would fit, I guess I was wrong. They won't sit flush, maybe it's specifically the ones I bought. Or I should've bought 5x7's? I don't really have too many tools, I have a dremel tool, but I don't know if that would do the job. I definitely don't feel like paying someone to cut that and wire up speakers, a subwoofer, and an amp (UNLESS someone can recommend a place near NYC that does good fabrication work for a good price. I want to put the sub in the back of the trunk on top of the gas tank hump, then have carpet and whatnot put in the trunk and hide the subwoofer with like a false wall). Has anyone used a dremel, or is that not enough? If it's not enough...I guess either I could try to borrow a tool that would, or it might be better to simply buy some 5x7's if they all fit perfectly and not have to cut into the tray? Any help I'd appreciate.
Son of a bee sting. Yea I got JL TR 6x9's. Grrr...They're pretty pricey too so I don't really want to try and sell them to buy a smaller pair.
Got a pair of BIG Blaupunkts in mine, under the mesh package tray. The magnets are so huge I can tow without a hitch. Screw holes were in there from the factory; I did remove "some" sheetmetal with tin snips just to increase hearing damage...
Shouldn't have to cut anything. In my car the 6x9s come from the bottom and the cover comes from the top and bolts sandwich the entire speaker in place.
Hahaha. Do you run them off the head unit, or do you have a separate amp for that? I have a retrosound model 1 in mine. They claim it puts out 45x4 watts. So I was planning on just running 4 speakers to each channel of that. And then I have a JL Audio 13TW5 in a sealed box that will be powered by a JL Audio HD750 mono amp. I plan on putting the sealed box and sitting it on top of where the gas tank hump is, the subwoofer facing up. It's sealed so in my experience, I don't think it should be an issue in terms of having it there? Except maybe if it's loud enough it'll be blowing right up at the 6x9's. Opinions anyone? You know..............................I'm gonna have to look at mine now. I NEVER even thought of that. The covers for mine seem to just snap on top of the speaker. So maybe you're right, mount them from the underside and then the screw/bolt will hold it in place. I'm going to have to check that out. Even if it's not meant that way I could probably put the screws in from the top and use nuts or something to secure it from the bottom. Thank you for the aspect.
The spot above the gas tank is the same spot I have used for many sub boxes. I normally face the subwoofer either forward or toward the back of the trunk to avoid having the metal / rear package tray rattle. For cutting the metal, I use an air saw. If you have an air compressor you can borrow from someone, you pick up a cheap saw for $20 at Harbor Freight. It should at least last long enough tp finish the job...
That's a concern. My box isn't short enough to face the subwoofer to the front or back. I don't really have much of a choice if I want to put it up there. Otherwise I'd have to put it somewhere else like as far back as I can while keeping it upright to point to the back of the trunk. I guess I would have to see how much it rattled before mounting anything down. I was planning on using just industrial velcro. My godfather used it to mount everything on his Judge, said it worked awesome.
Another method. Bolt 3/4" hi-density audio board to metal bulkhead between trunk and passenger compartment, and also to the bottom of metal rear tray support. Cut holes (size as required) for speakers through the acoustic board and the metal supports. I used a saber saw with a metal cutting blade. Speakers bolt to the board - provides a good rigid mounting surface. I used round metal speaker grills (Radio Shack - paint to match your interior) for the rear tray - bolt them through the tray to the metal support. "Free Air" sub uses trunk as enclosure, fires through the rear seat back no problem. I also built boxes below the rear tray speakers to isolate them from the sub. Amp for sub mounts as shown. Just some "food for thought".
get i a piece of mdf board 3/4 thick or so and cut out a 6x9 circle then use it to put speaker through it and just upholstry the board this way the speaker sits up higher ...hope this helps if not you can also buy these plastic risers..my bro owns a shop and does some crazy custom work...
Yea, I've thought about that a few times. I've seen free air/ free space subs on a lot of my friends newer cars. I wouldn't be opposed to it I guess. I think I would have to look up if anyone has done it with a13TW5. The main feature of that sub is that it's 2.5 inches thick so it only requires less than half the volume for a box. I don't know how well it would perform with that much space behind it your setup looks great though. How much did the material cost you to do that minus the actual subs and speakers? I definitely need to carpet the trunk either way. Did you buy yours to fit? Or cut it yourself?
alright i installed car stereo for 20 years, there is only one size 6x9 they are all the same the difference is in the thickness or height, the magnet depth should be no problem, the tweeter height might take a little work but a pair of tin snips will take out the bar in the middle of the opening to clear just about anything. is the deck cutout for 2 speakers? in not you will have to cut the cardboard which almost always cracks and looks like **** or buy a "deluxe" package tray cover from one of the repro houses which is what i did, it was a whopping 35.00 and looks great. any decent car stereo shop should be able to handle this no problem check wiht the "Tuner" guys and clubs in the area for a refference they will know the good shops, jim
Ricky, I did this speaker install about 10 years ago. The cost of materials would be negligible. I used left-over 3/4" speaker board and carpet from a re-model job on our house. The carpet I just cut and stuck in place with a little spray-on glue. My work is, at best, amateur "driver quality". If you want something better than that, or don't like the idea of hacking up the inside of your car, you should go to a pro shop and get it done right. Good luck with your project.
Yes there are two holes in the rear tray. Yea I will definitely get the mesh tray. When I bought it the guy had the cardboard one brand new so I'm glad I didn't actually spend money on it. It is pretty crappy. My mistake was trying to drop the 6x9 in from the top. So the metal guarding the speaker between the magnet and the cone would get in the way. So I imagine it will fit fine when I come from the bottom and bolt it to the rear tray. I wouldn't mind doing it myself. I had laid the wiring down when I was building the inside so all it's going to take is jotting the stuff in and wiring it up. Just a matter of how I put it in is the contemplative part. I wouldn't mind taking it to a shop like you mention if I knew I went to one where they actually did good work and don't charge an arm and a leg. Like I said back in Hawaii there was a great shop and the guy was going to mount the box over the gas tank like I was talking about then make a false wall that would fold down if needed but it would be carpeted black like the rest of the trunk and then maybe like a think piece of wood or something to kind of decorate it that ran across the back for like 500. As well as install the coaxials. Ive only seen like two audio shops nearby. No reviews online. I'll try looking around.
I have a 70 Skylark. The passenger side rear will accept a 6x9 bottom mounted I believe. The drivers side was only meant for a accessory rear defroster unit from what I can tell, so nothing really lined up for a 6x9 for me. Thats why one side looks different from the other. I removed the rear package tray material and used a jig saw to cut the unwanted metal out of the deck to allow a top mount of the rear speakers being careful to allow enough metal to remain to drill holes for the speaker screws. I put the package tray material back in place in used a marker to trace the material from underneath so I would know wear to cut holes. I painted the faded old package tray material with satin black paint to freshen it up, and dropped the 6x9 speakers in from the top. After tightening everything down it looked good. The speakers just sound better to me top mounted since they don't have to fight all the metal bracing and thick cardboard material to get the sound out. Its not a show car, and never ever will be so I was not concerned about it appearing original.
I herniated a disc in my back, so...hahaha it will be a little before I get back to the car. I had just gone through a nightmare of installing a new power steering pump that I have yet to see if it leaks out or not when it sits there. Maybe this weekend I will be able to get to it. I still haven't really tried anything with the audio yet. I'm thinking I will forego the possibility of an infinite baffle. I've seen a lot of mixed opinions on whether or not my subwoofer will really perform well as an IB. I think I'll try seeing how well the sub performs on top of the gas tank facing upward toward the rear tray, since that's the only way it fits back there. I'll probably make or buy a baffle for the 6x9's and maybe some dynamat alternative material to try and keep the rear tray from shaking if it does. If that works I'll try heavy duty velcro to hold down the sub box and amp, I've been told it works very well and not drilling or anything is required. If not, I think I will just end up going the proshop way since I don't have the tools or experience to really start making boxes and whatnot. Nor do I have the space or time haha
