I need to replace my valve cover gaskets but don't know which to buy. Whats the difference? I don't have any mods to the engine if that makes a difference.
One last question...do I tighten the screws as tight as i can or is there something that I should know?
I tried cork on my 350 and it is TERRIBLE! Leaked almost immediately, and cork absorbs oil which is annoying. Rubber works much better:TU: Tighten firm only. Do not put any muscle on the bolts you will bend your valve cover flange and possibly break a bolt. I've broken a bolt even when it wasn't that tight.
Been there done that, Cork does not work. Cork will seep oil no matter what. With rubber gaskets, my heads have never been drier.
I have old rubber on mine, and its holding up great. In theory cork expanding sounds good, but doesn't seem like it would last if you ever need to remove the valve cover.
Like I said above, it is the best solution for drivers who do not have a need to take the covers off like say a person involved with racing.
I agree with Jim. I use weatherstrip adheasived together, double gasketed cork...had them on / off at least six times... no leaks. Don't over or unevenly tighten. Also, your flanges need to be FLAT & straight to start with . Glue the gaskets to the covers, use Chapstick on the side to the heads for removablity.:TU:
Thanks for all the input...sounds to me like rubber is more durable...and if I'm not mistaken thy're the same price too. I was thinking about replacing my valve covers but decided to keep this hobby of mine as cheap as possible...so painted original valve covers it is. Money put towards my dry rotted tires. If the lip on the valve covers turn out to be a bit bent...can I just straighten them out??
If those rubber gaskets leak I will buy you a set of corks. :TU: That's how against cork valve cover gaskets I am. They leaked on my SBC and SBB.
Ha! I'll give you a couple years.:TU: Just make sure you use a small amount of RTV to glue the gasket to the valve cover and torque the bolts down evenly. It should go without saying all surfaces should be 100% free of dirt and oil before even pulling the new gaskets out. I use double stacked rubber gaskets, and on one valve cover only has five bolts (bottom corner broke flush with head), and it doesn't leak.:laugh:
. . . just bought rubber for my 430, the cork ones have leaked almost from day 1, never noticed it till the car was overhead on a hoist, and you could see the oil leak streaks at the rear lower corners on both sides of the engine block all the way down to the tranny inspection cover. The valve covers had been refurbished, were perfectly flat and torqued propery. Hopefully the rubber ones will cure the problem and seal those rear lower corners ! o No:
Like everyone says, make sure the valve covers are not warped. I like to use new bolts instead of the old stock bolts because they do get brittle and are often over-tightened and weekened so why take a chance of one breaking.... BUT remember to use the speaders from the old bolts or you will warp the valvecovers. Here are the torque specs:
I would use cork. Don't use too much of your favorite sealer on it and like was said, don't over tighten or tighten un evenly. You will squeeze part of the gasket out. Never had a problem with cork except when I was much younger and use to think that a heavy bead of Permatex made everything better, and tighter is always better. I would squeeze part of the gasket out doing it like that.
there are basically 4 different gaskets. 1, rubber 2, cork 3, mixture of 1&2, made by felpro 4, mixture of 1&2 with metal, (sandwich), made by victor i use #3. been on and off the engine 5 yrs. use no glue and no leaks
I've had great results with both Cork & Rubber! No matter what you choose, it's good to keep an eye on things. Watch for seepage and check bolt tension occasionally when you're under the hood admiring your work or checking your fluids.
