I have another question on this factory 4-link stuff.Has anyone tried the tubular braces that connect the upper & lower control arm front mounts together???I'm going w/ a complete wolferacecraft system- they don't offer this brace...Why does - edelbrock - dick miller racing - hoshkis- etc. have this for their systems?The car in question is used for the 1/4 mile,no corner carving.kirkm ( am i missing something ???) :spank:
I can't say for sure they have to help.The only thing I can say is alot of these guys will tie the upper control arm cross member into the roll cage some how which is the best way but this pretty much kills the idea of putting the back seat into the car if you care.I do beleive you need to do some thing to support this area depending on your hp and 60ft you will start to move the upper control arm x member.
Thanks for your reply,and yes i did tie the cage into the control arm cross brace.I'm looking at some other custom bracing for the rear crossmember- not sure yet.The control arm tubular braces seem like a good idea i hope they will not hurt performance w/ an anti-rollbar??The car runs low 1.5s 60'- that is footbraking,but i do have a trans brake installed (untested).OUCH! I'll be a norwalk raceway this sunday for the buick race.The car will be home,but i have the dick miller suspension parts & misc. stuff to sell at the swap meet.C-YA @ NRP kirkm :beer
They shouldn't effect the sway bar at all. You will need to find another way to tie the lower control arm mount to the frame the braces will help but more will never hurt.You need to use the t brake IMO I like to hit the suspension as hard as you can.
COOL ride 10inchbuick I hope to see some more pics of your ride...LOOKS tough! Yes i'm going to crawl under the car this week to start fabricating supprts.Kevin thaks for your post, and keep me informed on the progress of that BAD BU.Also if you have any thoughts on this suspension stuff - shoot me a message.kirkm :Comp:
There's a few pics on the bench under the baddest 66gs. Thanks for the compliments. Do what ever you can to support the control arm mounts if they move around you'll play hell gettin it to leave right.So get to work under there lets see some pics when done.You'll like the wolf stuff with the brake and the new set up you should see some 1.40's when sorted out.Good luck :TU:
Car/project looks sweet! Nice to see people resurect the older ones On those tubular braces, we don't make them either. The biggest reason is that people want to run exhaust, and they can get right in the way. On an all-out race car they can help. Another reason we skipped them was because they seem to mainly keep the lowers from coming up. The stk crossmember can handle that, but we figured that wasn't the best place to hook it to. On the G-body cars we made a brace kit (0251) that ties the lower control arm forward mounting point to the frame. That is the one that takes the beating most often. We don't have them for the A-body cars yet, or for the upper mounting points, coming soon. The uppers are getting pulled from the rearend, so anything you can do to brace the crossmember or brackets to resist being pulled from the car will help. The lowers are being pushed and lifted. Any kind of brace to resist that would help. I would stick with weld-in stuff on all these if possible. Don't be afraid to add 10+ lbs back there if necessary, it's taking all the torque! PS- I would put our swaybar up against ANY other setup out there, for racing down in the 7's or street/strip use. Our control arms do an excellent job as well, but we found they don't do the optimum job on low 9's and quicker cars that we would like. We are currently developing new double adj upper AND lower "Ultimate" series control arms for all-out race cars. They will be the best and strongest available, and cover any HP level out there. Many manufacturers (like Wolfe) use a 3/4" chromoly rod end (some use cheap 3/4's) similar to the pro-chassis. What they forget to calculate is that the pro-chassis cars are more like 2600 lbs. Most cars we see trying to go fast with full interior etc are 3300-3600 lbs. The std 3/4" really doesn't do the job then. It may not break, but it's such a small area of contact to take the load that it can cause resistance. We are using 7/8" on the lowers (30+% stronger than 3/4) and 1" or bigger on the uppers (for better thread/adj). We will have a prototype lower to see at Norwalk, and proto up & low at the Nat's. No way to make them cheap, but they will be the best. If price shopping only, don't bother waiting. If you want the best stuff at a great value, then hope you (and others) can wait. Will have 3 sets being run at the Nat's, mid-low 9's for one, and 2 heading for the 7's! Should be fun!!!
