http://www.bopengineering.com/buick_v8.shtml Expensive but supposedly the last one you'll buy ........and save the cam too?
Composite I Never Heard Of That...anyone Use This. There Was Just A Long Thread About Bronze And Steel Gears. No One Mentioned Composite. Just Wondering If Anyone Has Experience With One Of These And The Reason For Its' Development. Thanks, Corey
My brother tried one. He installed it in hope of getting away without the distributor gear oiler. It didn't work. Use the dist. gear oiler which I understand is sufficient without any special gears?
I do have one and yes it still wore after about 1000 miles you can see the wear sound like the oil sqirter is the way to go I'm going to do both this time the advantage of the composite is you dont have to worry about killing the cam.I dont know where cam blanks come from but an Idea may be to make them like a factory chevy roller cam and have a cast gear only maybe have it changable somehow anyway they are about 125.00 and still wear
I followed the link and wondered if I'm missing something???? They had 5 parts for a V-8 Buick and 4 parts for an Olds V-8???? Looks like a ton of stuff for Pontiac though?? I couldn't find a next page buttom or anything so I guess that's all they have for Buick?? I would call it P Engineering! Ken
I guess what really shocked me is that the only "performance" part they have IS the dist gear! I can get an oil pan gasket at NAPA thank you and the front and rear seals are no "new" trick!! Ken
Belt Drive Fix! Save the money from a front cover and new pump and put it toward a Peterson external wet sump. No more load on the distributor therefore no more gear problems. YOu could also for a few dollars more get the wet/vac pump that has a vaccum pump on the back half. I ran the bronze gear with a oiler and still had wear but it still lasted quite a while. THe cam also ate into the front of the block from all the loading before I chamfered the top edge and added the oiling hole which stopped the problem. I will be running the Peterson deal when the motor goes back together and wont be worrying about this anymore.
This has been my thought for a long time!! Understand that I will never have an engine of the level that you run but why mess with ALL the problems that are caused by the design of the weak factory oiling system?? It seems to work just fine from the factory for a lot of miles and seems to work OK on a mild build up IF the pump gears are left the stock height and the pressure is kept just high enough to protect everything, with tight bearing clearances. That said, I'd never bother with a belt driven pump but if I was going to shell out 4K for a new Bulldog block and load it with all the good parts, I'd spend the money for an external pump! At that point, may even think about an entire dry sump system! Ken
I guess I'm lucky. I run the "weak" stock oiling. Hundreds of runs and also no abnormal dist gear wear. Most dist gear wear is caused by revving a cold (OIL, not water) motor. And I mean no revving oner 2000 till the OIL is up to temp. The water will come up to temp way before the oil. On a cold day 40 deg we are talking quite a while! Pre-lubing the motor before stating helps too..... Anything over 90 psi even for a blip of the throttle is not good for the stock setup. And most motors set up for 70 lbs hot will easily see 90 plus on startup. So yes, I guess it is weak in that you have to be more carefull but not impossible. Don't try to impress your buddies by revving before the oil is warmed is all I can say. Chevy guys can get away with it because the run 50-60 tops OP....plus they can run thinner oil which take the load off the pump/dist gear. Well enough rambling for me.... Bruce
I think the MT cold is the #1 culprit for the problems I have had as well. Very cold starts are the issue, although a pan heater helps. On a real street car, an external belt driven pump just doesn't seem practical.
Yeah, makes me cringe when I hear of people starting their street strip or race cars every week or two to supposedly keep them in good shape. Let em sleep! A Mopar guy at the track was saying he starts his 340 'cuda (12-1 race motor) EVERY week in the garage for 15 minutes. He wonders why even though the motor only has 50 passes on it that it has slowed from 12.20s to 12.40s. o No: I told him all he was doing was wearing his motor out. Then he proceeds to tell me an engine builder told him to do it and what do I know. I think the engine builder wants to see that 340 sooner rather than later!!! :laugh:
Do you have any info on this Peterson I could read? I'm trying to come up with something more effective, myself. Thanks, Ken.
