I removed my heads on the GS the other day and had a heck of a time getting the blue dye off the heads. I finally used a scotchbrite pad to get it off, but need to do the block now. Is it imperative that the block have the dye removed? The block is smooth to the touch and I can't feel any imperfections where the blue stuff is, but want to make sure before I put the new one on. Would laquer thinner remove this stuff? It looks like blue paint and seems as though it is in the pours of the block. I would use the scotchbrite pad, but don't want any "junk" to get into the cylinders, as I don't have an air compressor handy.
This is common, and I wouldn't worry. I use a razor blade to remove the residue. The dye is probably just a mild adhesive of some type- sort of like the old trick of painting the gaskets with silver paint because it has aluminum in the paint. I've had my heads off about a half dozen times and some of that blue stuff always stays behind. never had a single issue. But it does look weird. Good trick to clean cylinder walls- get a deck of celluloid playing cards. Use the cards to get between the piston and cylinder wall, to catch any junk that fell in there. Works like a charm for me.
I got most of the blue off with a can of laquer thinner and some rags. That stuff is amazing, just don't want to get it on any paint or plastic!! I ran my hand over the block and it is very smooth with no residue left that I can feel. I just put the head back on, with the exhaust manifold attached!! I couldn't get it out like that, but I figured that I'd try it first and see if gravity could help. It dropped right in. Now I have the new gasket in place and the head sitting on the dowel pins. I went to the manual to make sure that I didn't miss anything, and it says to use something called "Perfect Seal", on the bolts. When I took the heads off, there was nothing sealing the bolts, do I really need this on them? I was reading where bolts that go into water passages need it, but wasn't sure if these bolts go into any water passages or not. None were wet when I took them out. o No:
Stock Buick 455 head bolts/studs don't go into the water passages, but I would put anti-seize on the stud threads, myself edit~ shouldn't have said bolt, I meant studs
Shop manual calls for "clean and lightly oiled bolt threads and oil under the bolt head" to get proper torque. Don't use too much as the holes won't allow excess out (oil doesn't compress very well either). I wouldn't use anti-seize....it isn't called for, and will change the torque reading. Once you chnage from stock, anything goes. later Tim
Like I say, I was thinking of studs only With a stud, you don't torque the stud to the block, you intsall the stud with your hand, and torque the nut to the head. The stud stretches at the threads on the nut, not the threads in the block. Again, it was my mistake. I am referring to studs, not bolts
Agreed except I would hope the stud stretches in the middle, not in the threads (thats why most have the thinner shank, it acts like an elastic under tension). Later Tim
I've found a good shop vac is an invaluable tool for sucking residue from cylinders during engine repairs.
I got all of the junk out of the cylinders, not that there was much, and got the car back up and running, but am having an issue with keeping it running. The car runs okay when the choke is closed (cold), but as soon as it warms up, the choke opens and it dies. It's like it is getting too much gas, as I can smell raw gas if I crank the motor and try to get it started. I didn't do much to the carb while it was off, I just cleaned it with Gum Out, but I did flip it upside down. Could this have unseated some parts, that would cause it not to run right when the choke is open? Also, when it does start, it runs really fast, I'm guessing around 3000 RPM and will stay there if I let it, but as soon as I tap the pedal, it quits and won't restart (Providing it is warm enough to open the choke). Isn't there a screw that will let the car idle higher when it's cold, that I can adjust to keep it from running that high?
More than likely you unseated the float and needle from the seat. You will have to take off the top of the carb.
The fast idle screw is on the pass side, low, under and behind the vacuum break. Sounds like you have a big vacuum leak. Check your vacuum hoses.
I'm almost positive it's a vacuum leak. I sprayed carb cleaner under the rear of the carb on the passengers side and it seems to settle the motor down. (It seems to be missing) I tightened the carb down a little tighter, once I found the leak, but it isn't doing any good. I'm going to go home and try putting the old gasket back in, and see if that helps any. The new gasket has a different shape then the old one. I thought maybe it wasn't letting the carb close all the way and was getting too much air, but once the motor warms up, it closes all the way. I can hear what sounds like a really high pitched squeaking and it stops when I spray the carb cleaner too. The old gasket had 4 distinct holes, the new one has 2 holes in the front and one big oval for the 2 in the rear. I guess a leak could account for the high idle, couldn't it, since it would be getting too much air?
