I almost burned my car down about 3 years ago, the cigarette lighter got pushed in and did not pop out and the wires got super hot and did nasty things. I have a replacement dash harness to install and I was wondering if there is a way to protect the lighter circuit with a fuse or even better, a breaker? I understand that it is wired direct to 12V due to the load (amps) that it pulls.
Isn't the lighter socket fused at the base with a thermal breaker type fuse ? o No: The Riviera has these screw on units on every lighter base.
I don't know. All I know is that my dash harness had a melt down from the cigarette lighter lead burning up. If there was some kind of fuse it did not work or had been eliminated.
The long draw time is the problem, not peak amps, and I don't really know the solution except to possibly install an inline fuse and slowly work the amperage up until it works, but doesn't pop. So in theory, it draws like 5-8 amps when it first lights up but drifts upwards and the coils get hot to 10-12amps, so a 15 amp fuse may save it. It clearly pulls less amps than the fuse in the box, assuming in my example the box has a 20 amp fuse in it.
Or just pull the element out so it draws nothing. I don't need no stinkin cigarette lighter.:grin: The fuse also powers the interior courtesy lights.
My lighter was accidently pushed in while cleaning the car in the garage and it also didnt pop out. A day or two later I went to start the car and the battery was dead, then I noticed the plastic around the lighter was a bit warped. I realized the lighter was still pushed in and it must have gotten very hot, but thankfully the battery died before it burned the car and then out house down. I have since taken the fuse out that also works the interior lights, but we dont drive her a lot in the evenings anyway, and its a small issue to have for that peace of mind.
There is only one wire that goes to the cigarette lighter, and is simple enough to unplug. Isn't the fuse for the interior lights the same as your brake lights?
Clock, Lighter, Courtesy, Glove Box, Dome and Trunk Light are on one 20 Amp fuse. Stop and Hazard lights are on another 20 Amp fuse.
its not the current draw that melts the wires it is the draw over a long period, coupled with the poor high resistance connection on back, just a push on connector, the inferior wiring of the period and the actual heat from the lighter itself. I saw this many time in m 20 years as an automotive electrical tech. not much you can do f you need a lighter, just make sure your socket and element are in good condition. if you don't need one leave it unpluged
Ah, so it is. I could of sworn the brake lights were tied to the dome light (to let you know if your brake light fuse pops), but I guess not.
The lighter in my wife's 71 GS dashboard has been melted into place for about the past 20 years. Can't get it out so I just disconnected it. Would be nice to charge the 2-way radio when on long trips, but I'd rather have a fire-free vehicle/garage.
Long ago, I disconnected the ciggy lighter due to electrical fires caused by the problems stated above.
Somebody replaced my lighter unit with one that has a ground terminal and wire. I see online that some have a ground terminal. So did the originals have just the one hot wire and how did they ground? I’m in the same position where I want to have power to charge a phone and don’t need lighter but I want it to all appear original. Thanks!
I have some replacements from Wagner that look similar, function the same. You coming to Macungie this weekend Hank?
