I am having some minor issues with my choke pull off not working consistently. I have an 800 cfm q-jet with a hot air choke that I put an electric conversion choke on. I had to bend the choke pull off lever to get it to actuate - it originally was a bit too long. Anyway, the choke pull off seems to hang up occasionally. Is it advisable to shoot some silicone spray on the little cam/weight on the passenger side of the carb to encourage smooth action or should it be left clean and dry? Is there an adjustment somewhere that I am missing? Thanks in advance for your replies!
What is the carburetor number? Did you get the electric choke conversion from us? New or used choke pull-off?......Cliff
I don't know the carb. number, where can I find it? It is an 800 cfm Q-jet (1975) with a hot air choke. The choke pull off is an older unit but the vacuum diaphragm works fine. I had to bend the choke pull off rod to get it to actuate. Originally, when the choke pull off got vacuum and retracted, the rod was so long that it was not affected by the choke pull off at all. I had to bend the rod back towards the front of the car to get it to work. No, unfortunately I did not buy the electric choke conversion kit from you.
Our choke is actually for a Q-jet, and we did the research, testing, etc, to make sure it works like it's supposed to. We high recomend using the correct one, as many will fit the housing, but most of them will not work correctly. It needs to be teamed up with a good choke pull-off to work correctly. When converting to electric, I recomend removing the hot air housing, blocking off the vacuum supply to it, and removing the inner seal on the shaft. Clean the inside of the fast idle cam with a rifle brush, and lightly polish where it rides on the housing with fine auto body sandpaper. The fast idle cam should drop down on it's own weight when you lift it up and let it go. Rifle brush clean out the hole thru the choke housing, and make sure the shaft coming thru is clean, polished and operates smoothly. The choke pull-offs main job is to unload the choke on cold starts. They are fully adjustable on that model. I recomend a new pull-off, with a quick release time. This will do two things. Unload the choke quickly to avoid flooding the engine, and not delay the secondaries when you go quickly to full throttle. The link needs to be bent slightly in most cases so it gently closes the secondary airflaps, but still allows them full range of motion when going to full throttle. It's common to have the link bind where it goes into the secondary linkage, and a little lubricant (light grease) is helpful in that area. Make sure the linkage is not bent, or crushed down some, causing it to bind where the link goes thru it. Hope this helps some?......Cliff
Hi Cliff, That actually helps a lot. I did some reading in the 1975 Chassis manual about the 4 bbl carburetor and the choke operation. I adjusted both my back and front choke pull off(s) as described in the book and cleaned and lubed the fast idle cam. Now when I tap the throttle the idle drops like it should. Apparently the fast idle cam had a little gum on it and it was binding and the front vacuum pull off was out of adjustment. I will later re-visit my hot air choke and block off the vacuum passage as you described. Thanks for your help! Lee
Cliff, what material do I need to block off the vacuum supply to the choke housing? Is this done internally or do I just block off the hot air supply from the intake manifold?
