i changed the points, cap, rotor and plugs on my 72 this morning and now it wont start. i know i need to gap the points still. will this cause it not to start? anyhow, whats the best way to turn the engine over so i can gap them properly? any tips? pete
Pete have someone tap the starter till you get to a high spot on the lobe in the distributor .Set points to 18 with a feeler gauge and then set them with a dwell meter to 28-30 after you get it running. Check timing when done . That should do it ....... We hope !:laugh: :TU:
Hey Bruce, I think you mean set the point gap to .016"-.018" and then the dwell to 28-30* with a dwell meter after the engine is running. I doubt the engine will run with the points set to .030"...o No:
ok... heres a dumb question... where is the dwell and how do i check it? on the carb right? where can i get a dwell meter and how much? think i might be in over my head... pete
Yup, you'll need a dwell meter of some sort, available at finer parts stores or Sears near you. On the side of the distributor, you should have a little metal 'door' that slides up, inside is the allen wrench fitting on the points. Once you set the point gap, button the dist back up, hook up your new dwell meter (they normally connect to the battery and one side of the coil, I forget which side.), start the engine, and you now get to enjoy the fun of sticking an allen wrench into the side of the dist., while not letting the fan smach your hand or launch the allen wrench across the garage.:gt: Anyway, with the engine running, you adjust the dwell. Basically, it's a more accurate way to set the point gap, since you do it with the engine running.:Smarty: I don't know what the point gap or dwell is for a '72, but the above posts should get you there! Good Hunting! James
Bad condenser I have had similar experiences with the problem of not starting after a tune up. One was due to improper point setting which has been described above. The other was a faulty condenser that was brand new. If all other efforts fail, I would change the condenser again.
Yep Al , In a hurry to go out the door last night , as you said .Glad you caught that the poor guy would have had a lot fun getting her running . Good luck p
Setting Dwell Pete - If your car has a slip clutch fan - hold a fan blade (before you start it) and that will eliminate having to play Russian Roulette with your knuckles and the fan blades. You can also tie the blade in a stationary position with a bungee chord, but make damn sure it's very secure! If it comes loose it could destroy a lot of radiator or whatever else it decides to chew up! If it's a solid fan Good Luck!
got it running now. just needed to gap the points. it was actually really easy. doesnt seem to miss anymore durring acceleration. was trying to time it though and the light i bought doesnt seem to work. any clues? pete
Pete, What do you mean, it doesn't work? It doesn't flash or you don't see the timing mark? More details.
Turn around? The "pickup" thing you "hock" on to the no:1 spark wire, my be turned he wrong way (they usually gut some kind off indication witch side "toward plug" Lars
no flash. ill have to check on the part that goes on the #1 plug. as far as the others... negetive on the battery positive grounded?!?!? pete
Positive grounded no no no! Lets star all over again. I assume the timing light got 3 wires. 1. usually with a red "clamp" = positive on battery 2. usually with a black "clamp" = negative on battery 3. An inductive "pickup" = this one you connect/ hock over no1 spark wire! This is the one i think is hocked on with wrong "side towards" the spark plug.... (one of the 6938 mistakes i already made and learned from "the hard way") If i lost you somewhere..... what brand/type timing light did you bay? Lars
I GUESS THAT WOULD MAKE MORE SENSE. ILL TRY IT AGAIN WHEN I GET HOME. BOY DO I FEEL DUMB! ILL CHECK ON THE BRAND OF THE LIGHT. :grin: THANKS...
