Well, after running the engine 30 miles, the special order CARS Buick red engine paint started rolling off above the manifolds! And to think, I didn't use the Dupli-Color that was sitting on the shelf when I have had pretty good luck with it. What a mess now!! Looks like the intake will hold, but I will have to work on the heads with a brush. Ok, WHAT kind of paint do you guys have good luck with? I have only used CARS, Dupli-Color and Krylon (some off brand names too). Some did well, but some didn't.
I use single stage auto body paint it seems more durable but no matter what you put on there eventually it's going to burn off above the exhaust manifolds.
awwww..........Don't be so picky John uzzled: just take a look at the 131k GS conv. uzzled: it's got the paint burned off too :shock: :shock: :eek2: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ndexURL=6&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting not to mention the wrong master cylinder :eek2: and oil fill cap ou:
I see engines that look good even after years of use. I have some V8's that still have paint on them and look good. The heads I removed from this engine still had paint on them and it held up well for years. So, I don't know why I can't do it again. These heads were fresh and cleaned well before painting. Not picky. I just like to do something right the first time and not have to worry about it later when I open the hood at a cruise-in.
From what I understand, a fresh from the machine shop engine should not have paint sprayed on it right away. The best way to make sure the paint will stick to the heads in the manifold area is to run the engine and get it good and hot. This will boil out the machining oils that are in the pores of the iron and prevent the paint from sticking well. You can spray brake cleaner until you're blue in the face. The only way to get those oils out of the pores is to get the engine good and hot.
I would think that powdercoating them would be the way to go. Do all the machine work, powdercoat them and then assemble them. I would think it would hold up better than paint. Any opinions?
I use the plasticote engine paint from Pep Girls (hehe)......it has ceramic in it. My old motor lasted 10 years painted with that stuff, never peeled. I like to paint on a bead blasted surface for best adhesion.........I paint the bare block and bare heads first before assembling it. I swear by the stuff. If you don't blast it, clean it with prep sol first..........your peeling problem is likely b/c of a lack of adhesion due to oil on the surface. :bglasses:
I have also used the plasticote paint, Universal red color with great results. I hasant burned off the heads or intake yet, 6 years driving. Another good thing if you spill any antifreeze on paint it willnot stain or discolor, this has happened with Cars paint Another good paint Red color is International harvester RED, This is an enamel paint , and about $7.00 a Quart at a local farm store, a very good buy. Jim Schilf palbuick@aol.com
No oil on the surface. Cleaned with prep-sol. I am sure running the engine before painting would help, but that makes it a bitch to paint. I have painted the engines in the past while they were apart. Some worked great, especially the ones with slight surface rust. Don't remember using Plasticote. I have powder coated some top end stuff in the recent past. Gas will give it a fit when spilled on it. I couldn't use carb. cleaner either without messing the coating up. I bead blasted all the brackets and intake, and so far they look great. Not the end of the world, but I wanted to hear from you all for the next engine. Thanks
I forgot to mention.........when I bead blasted my block, I used 1/2" plastic electrical conduit..........16 pieces cut 2" long to plug the lifter bores.........fit like a glove........ to keep the grit out of the oil passages. I also plugged every oil hole with plastic caps or tape. I also taped the cam bearing surfaces to protect them just in case. When finished, I spent a lot of time blowing it all out with compressed air very well. Any grit floating around in there will spell trouble. :bglasses:
I have used Plasticote Universal Red engine paint with good success.My brother works in a race engine shop and does a lot of cylinder heads.Other than cleanliness he swears that an elevated temperature of the surface to be painted is one of the most important factors to good adhesion.He does his heads at about 120F. after being reassembled and out of the final cleaning operation.Rod
Heating does help. Not only in the adhesion, but in the finish too. I hang all my small parts by wire and heat with a high power heat gun then immediately spray. Never done it to large parts like heads, but I would assume it works very well. Thanks for all the info.
On a clear day, you could just leave them outside for a while in the direct sunlight until they are warm. That would work for a block also, a heat gun would not be practical for heating large parts such as these. I painted mine cold and never had a problem though. :bglasses:
I have a big kitchen oven in the shop. Guess I could heat them on a very low setting. Do I smell torque cooking?
Here's a link to the Eastwood site where they talk specifically about the issue of painting exhaust manifolds. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=787&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=787 They have some good information in their tech library, as does http://www.advanceautoparts.com/howtos_tips/index.html Hope this helps!! Scott
