Not too sure when it started, but theres actually two smaller wires at the starter that supply voltage to the terminal block. Theres a 3rd for the crank signal. The two other wires are for the entire vehicle LIGHTING SYSTEM and the 2nd is for "ALL OTHER" stuff. Both run to the terminal block, but both are also supposed to have fusible links AT THE STARTER END. Separate the bulkhead connector and check for voltage on the engine bay side. That will eliminate all the stuff inside. That may have started in 1968... not too sure on the date on that. Notice two Fusible Links at top of pic... ws
Like I said, if you are still having trouble today you'll likely be able to get some assistance from other competitors.
This isn't a '66 wiring diagram, it's later. '66 is similar to the pic below except those connections are moved from the starter solenoid and to the junction block In '66, there is a heavy red wire coming off the junction block on the inner fender that supplies power to the fuse block (and rest of car). As Tom said, no fusible link for '66. It WOULD be a good idea to eventually splice in a fusible link there as a prevention measure.... in the event of a short somewhere, it will burn out before the rest of your wiring (or car) does. You can buy a length with terminal installed at NAPA for a few bucks. Another heavy wire at the junction block comes from the alternator.
Another 'upgrade' is to mount a Ford style solenoid up away from the starter. Starter-mounted solenoids may get difficult to trigger due to age, heat, or a weak 12v trigger source. The remote solenoid will more easily trigger when the key is turned. MAD Enterprises sells a complete kit called the 'Start'm up' kit: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml Here's a good article on how it's installed: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0312-chevrolet-no-start-fix/ The remote solenoid is also a popular 'fix' for lawn tractors that only go 'click' when the key is turned. I put John Deere kits on my JD425 and even my Kubota B2100.
'67 sounds about right with a multitude of DOT safety mandates. I always like the idea of the Ford solenoid, just for ease of thumb button for bumping timing. That Delco unit was one of GMs few weak points IMHO. I still look for side marker lights for a 68 model year on some of the other older lesser known models. ws
Talked to you yesterday at the track in Tucson, Rich aka rivirich or Sabrerattler. GM used a thing called a fuse link wire at the solenoid like last 3 inches. Can't remember which of the wires on the solenoid it is, but if you buy a "fuse link repair kit" it will have instructions. The wire up to the coil and distributor is a "resister wire" so you only get 9 volts to the points and won't burn them up unless you've changed the whole system over to run with a true 12 volt coil then you have to change the distributor to remove the points or run a separate resister.
Thanks for all the help guys! Drove with The Crop Duster yesterday ms it took a whole to sort out some problems, and it was raining, but made it to Phoenix, and are about to head over to the track. The blue 6 second Corvette rolled in ar 4:30 am.. Ouch. We have a new ignition switch we'll try today, and hopefully that clears the starter issues. No points, so no resistor wire. Thanks again! I'll check in later..
Thanks for sharing the pics Randall! It was a cool event to attend, and I'm still feeling pretty beat, lol..
