Car starting issues are driving me crazy!

I have gone from points to pertronix, didnt fix the problem, now back to points. Gotten larger wires for the battery. Ive tested the coil, all the wires etc. Got the carb rebuilt choke done everything, the car simply WILL NOT start in the cold weather unless it is jumped by another car.
I dont know whats going on, but its really starting to get old, after all the time spent on just this issue im really getting worn out on the whole "just getting it to start everytime" thing.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

How Cold Could It Be,your In California? Is It Cranking Slow ,then Cranks Faster When You Jump It? Randy

 

yeah i know, its like 50 still. And yes it does.
If it makes any sense, any time i do get it to start, it seems like its when i let the key go back from the ignition position

 

How did you test the coil, out of the car or in it? What was the voltage reading with key in crank position?

If the car is turning over but just not starting it sounds like a fuel delivery issue. But, since you said it starts fine whe jumped I have to assume your fuel delieryis fine.

So, is it possible pwer is being drained from another source? Or, is it possible when you replaed the baery you got a dud, like I did once.

 

Consider the battery or the starter motor as the culprit.

 

Yes, it does make sense. I think your starter wires are hooked up wrong. It thinks your "run" position is your "crank" position, which is why it fires when you release the key, if I understand you correctly.

"Run" position is when you let the key go, "crank" is when you are starting it.

 

ive tried 5 different batteries, im using a red top optima, with high cold cranking amps.
For some reason I think it has something to do with the choke. Can anyone assist me in checking that it is adjusted and working correctly. I can make a video if need be

 

anymore info on how to tell if they are hooked up wrong?

 

Most definitely, give me a moment.

 

This thread should help.

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=74993&highlight=starter+wiring

 

thanks im gonna go check now

 

wires are hooked up right on the starter

 

After The Comment About It Wanting To Start While Cranking But Not When You Let Off The Key.i Would Look At The Adjustment On The Switch On The Top Of Steering Column Or The Switch Could Be Bad.then Another Thought Is The Ballast Rsister Wire Could Be Weak. Randy

 

I dont think there is a wire running to a ballast resistor now that i think about it. Just went and checked, and it looks like the guy who switched it back from pertronix to points didnt put one in line, dont know how to put one in myself, any help?

 

I Ment To Say The Fusible Link Wire Which Is The One That Would Go To The Ballast Resistor If Using Pertronix,or Any High Energy Sytem. There Is A Way To Check The Voltage On This Wire,will Check Into It For You. Randy I THINK THE WIRE IS PURPLE,NOT SURE.

 

Alright, I no longer have pertronix though, im back to basic points.

 

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what the choke could have to do with it if it starts when jumped but doesnt start when not jumped...o No: that should not be a sympton of a bad choke.


you went through muliple batteries, so that is off the table, what about starters and starter solenoid?

 

however there is a small purple wire that is running from the coil and looks like it goes into the distributor

 

Ok, I think we need to go back to basics with this one.

For an engine to crank and run you need the following

• Starter motor that turns the engine over at the correct speed
• Ignition system that sparks at the correct time
• Fuel system that provides the correct ratio

These posts are confusing but I am assuming that you need a jump start to make the engine turn over. If that is the case, and you hook the jumper cables directly to your battery and your engine now turns over at the proper speed, your battery is bad.

Ignition: to test to see if it's firing when the key is in the start position, hook up a timing light and see if it flashes when someone else turns the key to the Start position. If so, then you have spark. If not, while a buddy is holding the key in the Start position, see if you have voltage at the coil. If so, then your points are either bad or very misadjusted. Fix the points (Use search function for further information). If there is no voltage at the coil, trace back your ignition wire until you find the break. Wire, fuse, switch , ect.

To force the coil to spark to test, pull the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and place the metal part close to a ground. This is where the spark should occur. Now, ground the (-) side of the coil. It should spark immediately when you ground the coil. Do not ground the coil for more than a millisecond at a time. Do this with the key in the RUN position

If your ignition system is fine, suspect the fuel system. Pour a tablespoon of gas down the carburetor, and try to start the engine. If the engine runs for a second then dies and will not restart without pouring more fuel down the carburetor, you have carburetor or fuel pump issues.

 

I found this part to be a little confusing, i take out the wire from the center of the distributor put it close to ground and then run a wire from the negative on the coil to a ground at the same time? or seperate times?
what would my results, either way mean?