Can I get the low down on the 2004R mod? What are the bennfits and what all will I need to do it right? lockup or non-lockup, I don't have a clue what that means. Is there a min parts needed junk yard swap out there for a 350V8? Thanks
You can get most of the parts needed from the yards, but I took the easy way out and ordered everything from Bowtie Overdrive in Cali. Find a good 200r4. Google it and find the recommended codes to look for. Basically any "perfomance" car from the late 80's ( GN, 442. Monte SS ) are the best ones to find. Mine is a BRF code from an '87 GN. You can also buy a trans built to however strong you need it from CK Performance in NYC, or California Performance Transmission (Art Carr's new company). There are others too. Prices $50 for a junk core to $3000 for a race prepped unit. Order a lockup kit from Bowtie Overdrive, TCI or B&M. This locks the clutches in the torque converter so it doesn't slip (more efficient). $70 Order a throttle linkage kit and TV cable from same place. $110 You will have to move the tranny crossmember back to the rear set of holes on the frame, if it's not there already. This is the turbo 400 location. I assume you have a TH-350 in the car now? That's about it for parts. I bought a deep sump finned alum oil pan also ($150), and plan on a auxilary trans cooler. ($50?) The lock up and carb linkage stuff can all be found on various donor cars, but I don't have time to crawl around in the mud to save $180. The last of my parts just came in last night, so I haven't installed anything yet. Good luck! Brian
I did a thread when I put it in my car with pics. It's pretty straight forward. It's GREAT on the highway. I'd recommend it to anybody.
Go for a modified 700R4, try : transmissioncenter.net/performance_automotive.htm I am looking to get one of these Raptor transmissions myself.
im doing a 700 swap in one of mine. some slotting of crossmember /mount holes tci trans adapter have a bfq (84-85 gn) trans in the other convertable key point is dont start engine without tv cable(to carb) correctly adjusted otherwise you could wipe trans out easily ck have a kit with valvebody/governor for under 300 and will shift better than a factory valvebody
Little bit of advice... Avoid the Ebay transmission deals. PATC may have a big name and spend alot on advertising, but I can link a recent horror story about one of their 700-R4's. Not the greatest customer service after fact when things went bad. Secondly, A 700R4 doesn't fit a Buick bellhousing and the adapters to make it happen are cheesy, I wouldn't recommend it. You only have 2 of the original bolts that line up, the whole upper portion of the transmission is relying on a piece of sheetmetal to keep it attached to the engine. No thanks. The 200-4R is a much better setup anyway. I run a small performance shop and mostly do GM automatics. 200-4Rs are one of my specialties. I will post pics of the one I am almost finished with in the next day or two. They work great when properly setup, but a wrecking yard transmission usually isn't going to to do it. Buy one from a reputable vendor. Do your homework in the Buick community, TurboBuicks.com is where most of the good 200-4R guys talk transmissions. Chris at CKperformance is where I get my specialty billet parts to build the 200-4Rs so I recommend him if you are in his area (NYC).
Chris is great to deal with. I got most of the parts for my 200-4R trans from him. Converter is very good also.
Just started my swap tonight. Car is on jack stands and got the drive shaft off. Inspection cover and converter are unbolted. All the bell bolts are out except the one the dipstick is mounted on. Holy mother, that one is gonna be a SOB. Can't get at it with the tools on hand. Have to buy a looong extension or go at it from the top. Any advise Jakeshoe? My frame is already drilled for the rear crossmember location, so that's a plus. I didn't think the '66 would be, since no TH-400 was available in '66. Wish I had a lift! I'll drop the old trans with a little floor jack and then jack the car up a little more to get it out of the way. Don't like working under there with the car too high. Brian
Hey Brian the higher the car is the more time you have to get out if it falls.:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Bob H.
And the more momentum it has to gain!ou: The top bolt, try to get it from the top. I have a LONG extension I use with some impact universal sockets to get at them
when you pull the crossmember lower the trans some and you should be able to get to the bolt with an extension
Hey 70sLark See New Stage2 in Burbank for a look at a 200r4 bolted up to my 635hp motor going in to my 69 Skylark!! 2500 stall and all the good stuff from Art Carr. Does 2800 rpm at 85mph in overdrive on the way to the track.:TU:
That's the key any time I've done transmission work...I use like a 4 foot extension and this should be allow you to get on the bolt straight on.
I dunno, its sounding like a bit to much all of a sudden for just an extra gear. Its not just finding $1500 for a trans but sound like around $2200-$2500 for everything extra and even then I gotta find a expert to set TV cable up right or it all gone down the drain before the car even starts. A $800 reman or a $500 rebuild on my TH350 sounds like the safer bet with no suprises extras? Unless someone sells a complete kit [ complete as in the only thing I gotta buy extra is fluid.] with set up direction for dummies? Cause I don't even wanna know what it takes to pay to get one installed.
Where are you located? I quoted a 200-4R install in an early Camaro yesterday for $2200. 2500 converter, trans, fluid, all installed. That was for a 200-4R that would be 500 HP capable, I have less expensive builds (no billet). I know several reputable 200-4R guys so maybe I can recommend one to you. It's usually best to use a local builder if possible.
