Again, that's damn close to the TA-25. I like the specs of that cam, should work pretty good for you.
But I can't use the Switch Pitch trans because with the switch off it stalls at 1500 and that would mean I would have to drive with the switch on all the time damaging my trans
You only need the higher stall when the car is stopped. Once it's moving over a few mph, the low stall will be fine. If you want a higher stall converter, get one from a 300 cid engine with the ST300 trans.:TU:
Driving with SP engaged most of the time isn't going to damage your trans. Although it will create a little more heat, it's no different from somebody driving around with a 2300rpm stall converter on the street, which people do all the time. That is an option, yes, I just find it to be a pain in the ass. Ya know Walt, I REALLY wish I had thought of getting a ST300 converter when I got my trans. I think Dan even had an extra ST300 converter laying around. Oh well...
Brake on = high stall. Reduces "creep" at stop lights; reduces engine "lugging" at idle in gear with radical cams and/or poorly-tuned carb. Brake off, accelerating in first gear to normal "city" speed = high stall for a bit, then low stall. Somewhat vehicle-dependent. Heavy acceleration beyond first gear = high stall or low stall, depends on engine/vehicle. Cruise and "normal" driving = low stall Full throttle = low stall for heavy vehicles or "salt flats" cars that would run WFO for miles. High stall or low stall for drag race--whichever works better for that particular vehicle. The Roe controller is programmable for all of this. The OEM GM switch controlling the converter stator solenoid will perform some but not all of this.
Easire than that would be to wire to the brake light switch and put a micro switch to the wot position on the carb..... best of both worlds.... high stall at idle and at wot.....
Here are some more cam options to consider: Carmen Faso W-30-10 Comp cams ErikS 425 Both have dyno results plus descriptions of many other mods. The W30-10 has more duration between 0.050" (232deg), and about 110 LSA. 0.466 lift with 1.6 RR. Erik's custom grind from CompCams was closer to TA25, a little more duration. There was a thread more than a year ago about cam cards. :3gears:
Thanks FunkyRiv I emailed Russ Martin and he agreed with you guys and said to use the TA-25 with the SP400. I asked him about Faso and he said that they are also a good cam and that he was a dealer and that unlike Faso he accepts credit cards. So now is the tough descion do I go with the TA or with a Faso. Does anyone have experience with either one?
Call Carmern and talk with him! He is a long time racer of the Nailhead as well as a parts provider. He has tried all combinations and will have a very good idea of what will work best for your combination if you give him enough information. 716 693 4090. Cheryl
just wire it off the brake light switch....where when the brake lights are on the sw. pitch is in high stall.....
Yes, but crusing around in low stall is fine. What you really need high stall for is idling at a stop light, etc. The W30 cam referenced above is 232*/232* @.050" lift. A split profile cam has a different intake & exhaust lobe, like 218*/228* @.050" lift (the TA25 for example). The 'Nail always seems to prefer a split profile cam, presumably because of the poor flowing heads.
When building your motor and choosing a cam, DONT FORGET to consider Tom Telescos custom NAILHEAD ROCKERS!!! I've heard THEY ABSOLUTELY ROCK! Cant wait to find out myseff! Wheelz, Tampa Bay
If you can afford them, you'd be absolutely crazy not to use them. Wish I could afford a set - they're AWESOME :TU: !
Like the TA-25 (218*/228*, .459"/.479", 112* LSA). I think a really good cam for a slightly modded to modded 'Nail would be something between the TA-25 and TA-413 (233*/244*, .500"/.500", 113* LSA). In fact if I ever getting around to tossing a cam in my '62, I'd really consider going with the TA-413.
