I have a new camshaft. I blew the last one because I had double springs and didn't realize it. I am about to break a new cam in and I want to do it right this time. I have 71 electra heads and my valve spring look like the one in the picture. They are Sealed Power VS1582 Valve Springs. Inside the spring it looks like a guide or something. Or is it a 2 piece spring What is that? Does it even come out if so. Do I have to remove that before I break in the new camshaft? PLEASE HELP .....S.O.S. I can't afford to do this 3 times
That is just a damper spring, no need to remove it.....Do you know the proper procedure for breaking in a cam? (not meant to be a rude question, just saying I'll type out how I do it if you want )
Yeah....don't do it like on TV where they idle with new cam and first start.....2000 to 2500 for at least first 10 min. If fumes get to you just shut it off just no idle.
I will always take advice especially since I got it wrong the first time. So I will not fight a write up. So if you can it would be great. Also I have non adjustable pushrods so there is no setting the lash correct?
Ok. I've got my lunch break in an hour. I'll come back and type out how I do it then....kind of frowned upon if I'm on here typing away too much during work haha
Alright, so yes, you need to have your valve lash/lifter preload set, obviously. I'm no BBB expert, so I will defer to someone that has a lot more experience with them to answer that part of your question on the proper set-up. Having an extra guy or gal there during the start-up is a big help, because you're going to want someone watching the engine compartment for issues/leakage/fire while you or they sit behind the wheel running the throttle and watching gauges/idiot lights once it fires up. As far as the actual cam break in, most guys recommend 5w30 or 10w30 break in oil or oil with ZDDP/zinc additive for the first start up. I personally use non-synthetic Valvoline 5w30 with Lucas break in additive, but any of the good brand additives or break in oil will work just fine. I fill up my oil filter, too, especially on a new engine or a first start up to avoid starvation while the filter fills. I prime my lifters in a small tub of the oil I'm going to be using. Hopefully your cam came with some cam lube, if not, get some and coat the lobes generously all the way around. I also put some on the bottom of the lifters. After the cam and lifters are in, your lash/preload is set, I prime the oil system by turning the oil pump drive just until I can feel that the engine is primed (you will feel the oil pump get harder to turn). I don't do much more priming than that especially on a new engine, as I personally feel like it washes some of the assembly lube away. Avoid turning the engine over as much as you can to avoid wiping the cam lube off, some is going to be necessary during your valve lash/preload setting, but just do as little turning as possible. After you've got your distributor in and your timing figured out (it should start at 0 degrees, but I usually try to fudge it a bit to where it's at 5-10 BTC so I'm close once the engine fires), pour a little gasoline down the carb to help it fire up right away. Leave the distributor hold down snug enough that you can turn the distributor with a little force by hand, but not so loose that it will rotate just from the engine running, in case you need to adjust the timing because of it running poorly. It doesn't need to be running perfect during cam break-in, but you don't want it missing and popping or backfiring, either. You or your helper get behind the wheel, with the other one watching the engine compartment. Whoever is at the engine compartment should have coolant to fill the radiator once it gets going as it's going to go down, and a fire extinguisher just in case. Try to start the car like normal, but if it doesn't start in a legitimate 5-10 seconds of cranking, stop and figure out why it hasn't started. The more you crank it over without it starting, the more of the cam lube you're wiping off lobes, so you want it to start as quickly as possible. Once it fires up, get the RPM up to 2000-2500 immediately. Watch all your gauges/idiot lights. If you've got no oil pressure within 10 seconds or so, shut it down, but don't let it idle, just turn it off from the 2000-2500 RPM and let it die. If all is going well, keep it between 2000-2500 for 10-15 minutes. I like to vary it between those RPMs slowly up and down, but a lot of guys just get it there and leave it. After that 10-15 minute break in period, I shut it down, let it cool off, and change the oil with the same type I just ran in the engine with more additive again. Re-check all your fluids, and retorque anything you had off (intake manifold, water pump, etc.) Fire it up, listen for any bad noises (you can let it idle now), set your final timing, and hopefully all has gone well. I use ZDDP/zinc in my stuff at every oil change. It's not cheap, but it's cheaper and easier than a cam swap, as you've found out. I'll run that second batch of oil for about 500 miles and then change it again, this time running what I'm going to for the rest of the car's life. Hopefully that helps, and if I missed any steps (typing instead of talking makes it easy to forget some things), somebody feel free to chime in. I haven't had a cam go flat yet.
And if anybody else reads that and has dual or triple springs (not just the damper type spring), remove your inner springs for break-in. It's a pain to have to put them back in after the engine is already assembled, but worth it not to flatten a lobe or 16......
