I stripped a bleeder on the right caliper. I tried to loosen it to rebuild the caliper, but it didn't budge and now it's worn down to a nub! I've tried PB Blaster, heat, etc. Now what? I'd hate to ditch it for a new set, they're getting harder to come by. Any ideas?
You could break it off flush then use a small chisel / screw driver to break it lose. Did you heat it up before you stripped it??? I allways heat mine real good and they snap lose every time.
I didn't heat before attempting to loosen it. I'll try it on the other side. I thought it would come right out. I thought wrong! I'm trying to work with what I have. I'm afraid that if I break it off I'll never get it out.
Try heating it up and tapping the bleeder nicely , After you let it soak over night with PB blaster. Hope it works for ya . Be gentle ......:Smarty: :TU: Wear your safety glasses .p
I've used vice grips. Been lucky, though, that they didn't break. Be careful, and if you get it to move a little, tighten it back up, loosen, tighten, etc. If you're patient, you'll get it out.
I agree. If you have the time just keep soaking it in Kroil or PB even for a couple of days. Vice grips, heat and patience. You'll get it. :TU:
Thanks guys. I tried PB once, but I'll try it again and let sit a few days this time. I've been trying with vice grips, that's why it's down to a nub. If I can't get it out I'll have to get a set of loaded calipers. Advance Auto carries Raybestos remans loaded for $43 ea.
Remember , Spray and soak with PB , gentle taps with small hammmer while your heating it up and I use a box wrench on mine with a little back and forth motion with wrench . Keep us posted .:TU: p
Don't even bother to fix it. Just save yourself the hassle by getting a rebuilt caliper. You can get a rebuilt caliper for around $25 to $30. Some things aren't worth the bother.
In the future When loosening bleeder screws do not "push" them as such. Soak them as far ahead of time with the PB Blaster. When the time comes pull the wheel. Tap the top of the bleeder screw straight down with a hammer (prefer copper here) until you start to see a slight bit of distortion. Now put your 6 point socket or wrench on. Using the hammer from step one tap the wrench/ratchet TIGHT a couple of good smacks. Now whack it a few times LOOSE. One of the old timers (45+ years exp) when I was a mechanic used this method and since using it I am about 199-1 (win-loss) on bleeder screws. Your big enemy here is the corrosion. Putting the wrench on and pushing for all your worth will just round off the hex or twist the head of the bleeder off. By tapping the bleeder every time we interact with it we're breaking the corrosion up and hopefully freeing the bleeder. At least with our cars if all else fails GM calipers and wheel cylinders are pretty cheap. By the way, this same method works on line fittings also. regards
if the bleeder breaks........ ....its not a legal manuever ...but you can bleed from the brake line connection....done it more than a few times.....and same results....
