Bushings

I know I am lazy, but, I remember seeing a thread sometime ago that outlined the best way to remove and replace the bushings on the "A" frames and control arms. Can someone help me out?

Thanks.

Len

 

Len....big hammer,I tried the press route,but a BFH worked the best

 

Take to an experienced shop. They have the equipment to do it. It is not much $ once you take them the arms.

 

I do this all the time. Easiest way I have found is to use an air chisel and a dull, repeat dull, flat chisel bit about 3/4" wide. If you use a sharp bit, it will cut right through the outer metal sleeve. The uppers are very easy.
For the lower A-arms and rear t-arms, I like to collapse the outer metal sleeve inwards and then drive them out. Takes a little practice but you should be able to do all 4 A-arms in 20-30 mins. Rear t-arms usually take a lil longer due to rust.

 

Thanks for the info. guys. I will bring the "A" frames to my friends Meineke Shop and let him do them.

Len

 

Any suggestions on the bushing kits? Poly or rubber? Manufacturer? OPG? Year One?

 

Len,
You can get all the bushings from Autozone, you can price compare but I don't think you will beat their prices once on include shipping from OPG, PPI, etc.

As for bushings, if this only a street car, use rubber. The originals lasted 30+ years so you will be set once you do them now.

If you are going to do autocross, street racing, etc, use polyurethane. Expect a harder ride due to less deflection under load. You will also get more vibration transfer too.

Up to you.

 

Check www.espo.com for bushings ,springs etc.


We have owned GS cars with both rubber and poly. Each have their own virtues. I like the feel of the poly graphite.

 

Thanks for the info. I will check with Autzone tomorrow to see what they got. I am leaning towards rubber; strickly a street car.

Len

 

"drive"

To add to what George N. said on driving them out - great info! :grin:

"Drive" them out all from the rear of the center sleeve and "tweaking' the outer flange portion in a circular motion around and away from the arm itself. This keeps damage to a minimum on the arm and solely on the "old" bushing.

This works for the rear and front control arms - and using too sharp of a bit will make your effort two fold.

My first A-arm took wayyyyyy too long and my second was half that!