Buinicorn my 1964 wagon

Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by superbuickguy, May 21, 2017.

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  1. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I kind of figured the wide wheels wouldn't work.... need less offset
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    a fix for the zerk fittings... 90*
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    this center link... what a pain it's been (and the wrong one, I believe)
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    front suspension
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    need to look at old pictures... I can't remember if the steering arms pointed in or out... but that was after I had to redrill them for larger bolts
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    assembled - didn't even kill myself with the spring compressor
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    both sides
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    wasted effort.... manual steering arm is different then power
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    a-body v. g-body arm.... the PS a-body arm has a 1 1/8" hole rather then 1 1/16"...
    ah well, new they're 40 bucks so it could be worse
     
    Nailhead Ronnie likes this.
  2. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    install brakes
    grease
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    sporty
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    fun of getting bolts off
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    but I have a solution, plus heat....
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    nope, 4 door rear doors are not the same.
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    bright side is the metal will work well to fix the quarter panel
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  3. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Yeah, now that I see a pic of your car on the side I can see where the door is different than a regular 4 door car but it looks like the difference is up higher in the window area, not so much lower down?

    QP should be the same from the body line just above the door handle down to the bottom I would think anyway. They didn't like making to much different tooling for cars with the same name even back then if they didn't have to.
     
    Nailhead Ronnie likes this.
  4. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I suspect the front door is the same as a 4 door - I bought the front door and picked up the rear door because it was there, it's an open question whether or not it's better then the door that was on the car. The issue is the car got side swiped and they repaired it with hole drilling and bondo.... fender is saveable, front door I could save it, rear door - I'm going to have the body wet-blasted so I'll be fixing it right....

    I like odd cars and this is simply part of the joy, truth is I like metal work so this is kind of my happy place.
     
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  5. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I'm surprised what I did tonight I don't have to re-do, but sometimes I get lucky

    I got my new steering arm
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    only one itty-bitty problem... the hole is too small
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    fortunately I have a reamer so with a bit of work, it fits.
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    however, a new issue. There's a pointy bit on the cross member that makes putting this together an utter pain
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    chop chop
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    and remarkably, everything clears.... it sure doesn't look like it will but it does
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    though with these wheels, it touches the sway bar
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    I'm so glad I have this bit - it gave me the opportunity to compare....
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    onto the steering
    I may eventually put a borgeson joint in here, but for now, I'm going to chop the shafts apart then weld in the collapsable section
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    In other news, I'm going to make this drive sooner then later. To that vein, while I'm building the turbo motor, I'm putting my 455 from the last Skylark in it. I already have headers and the power steering works with this box. I need to fix the low oil pressure issue, but that's simple enough I don't remember if I put a high volume pump in there, but I do know the tricks to give it more pressure for zero dollars and zero cents... which will make this mobile
     
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  6. Nailhead Ronnie

    Nailhead Ronnie Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

    What's that blue stuff you used with the reamer?
     
  7. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    there are a lot of internal parts - such as inner fenders, floorboards and such which interchange with the Chevelle, but externally, I've never found anything that's close enough - not saying there isn't stuff, but I've no experience which suggests there is

    AMD - they provided the quarters for my 70 Buick. I continue to be impressed with them
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    I don't need more then about 30% however, $80 and $130 all in with shipping.... thank you chevrolet
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    and brake lines too
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    I built lines for a Corvette (very custom) - these lines are cheaper (when you include fittings and spring covering) then the material cost for the Corvette
     
    Nailhead Ronnie likes this.
  8. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    machinist dye. I use it to mark the depth of the hole on the original part, then I don't go too far when reaming the new parts.
     
  9. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    installation of brake lines
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    and got stopped
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    I knew this, but the arm I ordered isn't the right one - so it's ordered now and the rest (master and booster) are on their way
    and there's plenty left to do while waiting
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  10. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    I got the parts, so tomorrow the puzzle should be complete and I'll have brakes.
    https://pbase.com/nufsed/image/49448866

    I also verified that I have a 'spare' turbo350 trans from my other Skylark - I may use it just to make this move. it's going to be a choice either make the turbo motor run on a MS3x or simply slap a carb on a 455.... both have benefits and down sides.... but since I know the 200r4 is a $3000 rebuild cost, dividing the spend is a good thing....

    and I'm probably just going to send my liquid cooled visa and my 200r4 to Art Carr... but dividing the wallet pain for after I get this painted and mobile is a good thing.
     
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  11. superbuickguy

    superbuickguy Well-Known Member

    got some stuff progressed

    steering
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    I bought a knock-off borgeson joint and then cut the ends off the collapsable portion of the quick ratio box
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    I cut the steering shaft long, then flattened two sides so it'd slip together
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    and welded it to the column shaft
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    then brakes
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    what a pain to get to this point
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    screwed the brake lines in
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    finally found the correct arm... and only the left is readily available... so waiting again for the other side
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    the front is nearly done.... tighten a few more bolts, all the cotter keys in place
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    rear isn't that far but now I wait for something to get here from PA.
    I certainly have plenty of other things to do and now if I need, I can roll it out
     
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