Building 455 for my truck. Looking for advice.

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by LDPosse, Feb 19, 2004.

  1. LDPosse

    LDPosse Well-Known Member

    This is my latest Buick project. I managed to get a '76 Buick 455 for free.

    It was a low-milage, running engine (although I didn't hear it run personally, the starter was dead). I took it apart to clean it up, with the intentions of putting it back together as is, but I'm not sure what path to take now.

    I took the dis-assembled block to the machine shop, The cylinders don't have any bad scoring or gouge marks in them, but they have a .006-.007" ring ridge. The machine shop advised against using the stock pistons/rings over again for something I plan on towing with, and keeping long term. Their recommendation was to bore the block.

    What Im looking for here is

    1) Is there anyone that would recommend NOT going with an overbore?

    2) If I bore this thing, I would like to use a torque plate, but I don't have one, I don't know anyone who has one, and I don't know where to rent one for a reasonable price. Would boring the motor without a torque plate be a big deal in a non-performance application?

    3) Are grooved/double grooved/teflon coated/ etc etc etc etc cam bearings needed with a small cam? The grind I have is an old KB grind, .470 something lift, I don't know the duration for sure I think it is like in the 210-215 @.050" range.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    A fresh bore without a torque plate beats hell out of no bore and .007 taper. I'm told that modern rings will accept .007 taper, but that is the max they will take. I hope to never find out. Why build an engine already worn out?

    Bore it.
     
  3. KELLY SONNABEND

    KELLY SONNABEND Well-Known Member

    i would only rering if was only going to be used very little and you just cant aford to bore, have the pistons checked for cracks and ring grooves checked for wear. the last 455 that i reringed, i put 50,000 miles on it. i did turn the crank, but it was starting to loose oil presure, when i tore it down the bore was really wore out. i think maybe not being as tight as a bored block it wore alot faster. but like i said if you just needed to get a moter that will last a few years till you can have it completely rebuilt. but i would bore if you can.just my 2 cents
     

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